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  • 驴克 发表了 游记  · 2015-12-28 16:53

    (全文完)这年盛夏,50天12国,匆匆走过东欧&巴尔干半岛,带着一些爱与哀愁

    引子:原来以为,去欧洲看教堂、去美洲开车、去澳洲抱考拉、去巴西看基督像、去加勒比海游泳……就是旅行的终极梦想。现在,恍然大悟,旅行哪有什么终极梦想,永远都会只想着属于我的下一站在哪儿。即便真有终极梦想的话,也许就是只要一直在路上了。这世界,是我们穷极一生也无法阅尽的。这一趟,我们用50天,匆匆走过东欧、巴尔干半岛41城。在布达佩斯看了最经典的多瑙河夜景;在科尔丘拉岛见了最剔透璀璨的地中海;在莫斯塔尔见了最翠绿的河水;在保加利亚见了最NB的飞碟建筑;在阿尔巴尼亚的大城小镇见了最美最温暖的笑容;在波兰见了最美的中世纪广场;在萨拉热窝见了多元文化最完美的融合;在贝尔格莱德见了难民的生活与15年前战争遗留的创伤;在黑山见了最壮丽的峡湾,在奥赫里德见了最神奇的湖水;在罗马尼亚与故知重逢;在柏林、在奥斯维辛见了最残酷也最完整的历史……我想把这一路分享给你,也再次分享给我自己。关注我的微信号:lvke820,我会呈现给你们更多。特别说一下旅途的保障,像申根国家都是需要保额满足3万欧元才可以过签的,我也一直认为保险是旅途中花费最少的,但是却能保障一份安心,如果真遇到事情能给你一份保障,减少不少的花费,像欧洲的医疗费都是很贵的,而且小偷也很爱偷中国人,我的旅途时间又比较长,所以很在乎医疗和个人财物方面的保障,我买的是美亚的,医疗、意外、个人财物(包含现金)、旅途延误等都有保障。http://t.cn/R5u9wzD手绘版行程概览,此行的具体路线,出发之前谁也不知道的前路,在回来以后一切变得明了。封面之【柏林】柏林墙的世纪之吻勃兰登堡门,它还真就是个门!柏林大教堂,巴洛克式的凝重封面之【波兰】波兹南,中世纪小镇颠覆波兰在心中的形象奥斯维辛·比尔克瑙集中营,战争的伤痛无法掩盖奥斯维辛小镇,忘掉集中营,这里很安静克拉科夫,波兰的明珠,值得慢品这样温暖的爱情,发生在克拉科夫华沙,一切都是新的,老城也是新的华沙,老爷子跟我说了一些我不知道的历史,嗯,他还不习惯看镜头。封面之【匈牙利】布达佩斯,多瑙河上当之无愧的女王佩奇,42℃的高温让这里的色彩更浓烈塞格德,很小一座城,有很美的建筑封面之【塞尔维亚】贝尔格莱德,最大的东正教堂,还有15年前的轰炸……诺维萨德,被小城夜景惊艳,也被城外山上的故事打动苏博蒂察,奇奇怪怪的建筑,怀疑高迪来过封面之【波黑】萨拉热窝,就为了名字而去莫斯塔尔,永远忘不了的是这里的河水封面之【克罗地亚】斯普利特,热闹的港口城市,从这里搭船去小岛波尔小镇,被金角海滩吸引过来伊尔萨小镇,不是克罗地亚众多小岛中的精华,但却适合生活赫瓦尔小镇,自然与古迹的完美结合科尔丘拉小镇,这里有我见过最美的地中海杜布罗夫尼克,对这里,已无需多言封面之【黑山】科托尔,越来越多的豪华游轮开进科托尔峡湾,来这里要趁早封面之【阿尔巴尼亚】地拉那,最不像欧洲的欧洲国家首都,霍查和他的金字塔早已倒塌克鲁亚,几乎找不到旅行信息的小城贝拉特,千窗之城,阿尔巴尼亚的淳朴世遗小镇封面之【马其顿】奥赫里德,那里有依山傍湖的小镇和神奇的湖水,还有一段没开始就结束了的艳遇斯科普里,大概是近期发了财,大兴土木中封面之【科索沃】科索沃不再是战争的代名词,人们过着充满美国元素的生活封面之【保加利亚】索菲亚 从这里开始自驾横穿保加利亚之旅瓦尔纳 黑海让人失望,沿途却弥补了遗憾内塞伯尔 这里的精彩不在世遗小镇、不在黑海,而是迎来了30岁的那个我里拉 不来里拉修道院就不算来过保加利亚,是真的普罗夫迪夫 把如此重镇当了歇脚之地,奢侈且罪过卡赞勒克 共产主义纪念碑,就为你而来!封面之【罗马尼亚】布加勒斯特 看看奇奥塞斯库的“杰作”布拉索夫 原为布朗城堡才停留,到了才爱上这座色彩小城布朗,看,这就是传说中的吸血鬼城堡锡吉什瓦拉,也是和吸血鬼脱不了干系的地方锡纳亚,有座美丽城堡的罗马尼亚小镇锡比乌,号称欧洲的文化首都,我们却吝啬得只给了她一晚上的时间蒂米什瓦拉,政治意义大于其它,神父在窗台的演讲激发革命热潮奥拉迪亚 建筑很美,只是重建的尘土多了些封面之【路上的我们和各样的你们】在路上,有太多的相遇、相识,甚至重逢。那些故事,只有少部分留下影像记录,但却能全部印在心里。萨拉热窝火车站,拉着我介绍他们火车的列车员和我拍下这张好像穿越时空的模糊合影萨拉热窝老城中心,帮我们拍下这张合影的是位裹头巾的姑娘,只看到她美丽的眸子萨拉热窝拉丁桥旁,“嗨,兄弟,是中国人?你知道怎么去火车站吗?”一句话让我们认识这对环游世界的熊叔&左姨萨拉热窝一家酒店,前台的这位姑娘喜欢中国,喜欢和我们聊天莫斯塔尔大巴站,坐早班车离开,民宿主人坚持开车送我们来车站,一句“qiao”的告别,包含很多布达佩斯城堡山,经典的画面里,终于有了我们赫瓦尔古城广场,古堡上结识的斯洛文尼亚人,我们的结束语是欢迎到各自国家做客,之后他去坐公交 ,我坐船斯普利特港口,同为交通协管员,看看人家的形象伊尔萨古城,自拍N次未果,路人端起相机帮我们满足了心愿,他说他是摄影师杜布罗夫尼克城墙上,不记得当时太阳有多大,只记得那时的景色有多美科托尔,每当置身这样的场景,就想时光停止科托尔,每当置身这样的场景,就想时光停止阿尔巴尼亚,这个欧洲最穷的国家,却是我见过笑容最多的国家斯科普里,跟着我们半天终于提出合影要求的姐妹花,这世界上真的没有那么多骗子能让你遇到卡赞勒克,共产主义纪念碑前的合影,早就在梦里出现了N+1回锡比乌,“给我们拍张照片吧!”从屏幕中看到自己的微笑后,两人道谢着离开,这是很美的瞬间蒂米什瓦拉,一起坐夜火车,路遇数次后,我们终于决定互相认识,两位对中国文化感兴趣的西班牙姐们儿布加勒斯特,巴西之旅相识的故知,在罗马尼亚再次有了交集,这顿中餐都是这辈子最美的回忆了奥拉迪亚火车站,这样的我们,是最真实的旅行状态,只有我自己知道笑得这么开心是为了什么

  • 茱妮 发表了 游记  · 2019-07-17 19:12

    【有一种热情叫“塞尔维亚”】初春1600公里自驾塞国深度游

    2019.10.02上穷游首页啦🎊🎉🎈 收到通知时间是凌晨2点多,辛苦大秘书!2019.9.12首页今日推荐达成2019.9.6游记加3星精华&东南欧版块置顶纪念~感谢穷游大秘书序:我眼中的塞尔维亚“Aha~Aha~Aha~”,每次从塞尔维亚人嘴里听到这一叠声的语气词时,我就忍俊不禁。这个词是表达“噢我明白了”、“原来如此”的意思,不过塞尔维亚人最少说三个“aha”,实在是有趣得很,而这种稍显戏剧性的语气词也隐隐带出他们的某些天性:热情、爽朗、朴实。塞尔维亚人特别热情好客,不是西欧国家某些人内心早把你拒于千里之外的假热情,也不是美国人惯于social辞令的热情,塞尔维亚人的真情实意是你完全能感受到的,像是相处已久的老朋友,不做作,也不令人尴尬。这是我们这趟塞尔维亚之行最深的感受。在我的刻板印象中,塞尔维亚经历过数次民族危机——奥斯曼帝国侵略、一战二战、南联盟解体等等,应是个透着淡淡哀伤的忧郁小生,还未来得及代入这种情绪,转瞬却被塞尔维亚人民那扑面而来、直截了当的热情给弄得措手不及。于是乎,饭也蹭了,旅行团也蹭了,偶遇的当地村民活动也参加了,rakija一杯杯下肚,喝着小酒,唠着嗑儿,就这么爱上了塞尔维亚——或许此文标题还可以叫作:我们是如何被可爱的塞尔维亚人圈粉的。同样的,我也没想到塞尔维亚的春天能这么美,网上对于塞尔维亚自然风光的笔墨实在太少了,人们写塞尔维亚的宗教和战争,人们写东欧特色的建筑,却极少有人提到塞尔维亚蕴藏着如此丰富的自然资源,那片浓得化不开的原始森林、散落在丘陵间的粉色白色花簇、晨间云雾缭绕的兹拉蒂博尔山区……我在制定行程计划的过程中几乎未曾在任何一篇游记里见过。作为热衷于收集四季花草美景的我,彼时特别庆幸我们选择了这样一个季节出行,也能让我为打算或正在考虑选择塞尔维亚出行的人提供除人文历史外更多的旅行信息。强烈推荐4月去塞尔维亚旅行!这里要特别感谢巴尔干地区大神Tino Leung,他的塞尔维亚游记给我提供了许多有用的信息,并且一路上还帮我补充了不少知识点 。当然还有老司机璐璐joylxl, 全程承担了开车重任,顺利走过这3300里路的云和月。图:塞尔维亚速览塞尔维亚是一个历史、文化、自然、人文极其丰厚的国家,然而我相信很多人会和我们最开始那样——除了首都贝尔格莱德对其他地方一无所知。我从塞尔维亚回来后也被不少朋友问到塞尔维亚到底好玩在哪里,其实这很难用几句话概括清楚,即便说了xxx景点的名字,他们也想象不出具体的样子。所以不如在开头用一些“照骗”来迅速认识一下塞尔维亚的几大看点。城市风光诺维萨德(Novi Sad),塞尔维亚第二大城市,北部游玩时的主要落脚地。匈牙利旁的边境小城苏博蒂察(Subotića),art nouveau建筑是这里的城市标志塞尔维亚北部曾经的政治文化中心,红酒小镇Sremski Karlovci首都贝尔格莱德(Belgrade)——有着波西米亚风情的斯卡达利亚街当地的市场贝尔格莱德有着闻名欧洲的丰富夜生活最喜欢贝尔格莱德街头的有轨电车贝尔格莱德的街头涂鸦贝尔格莱德辖下的小镇泽蒙(Zemun)防御要塞位于诺维萨德的欧洲第二大要塞彼得洛瓦拉丁(Petrovaradin Fortress)在马格里奇要塞(Maglić Fortress)偶遇当地人一年一度的纪念活动贝尔格莱德要塞(Belgrade Fortress)的日落纪念碑70年代野蛮主义建筑红星纪念碑(Kosmaj)山峦红星纪念碑所在的山顶公园被绿茵与鲜花所环抱北部唯一的山区弗鲁什卡山(Fruška Gora)壮丽广阔的兹拉蒂博尔山区(Zlatibor)被列入联合国“人与生物圈”计划的戈利亚-斯图代尼察生物保护圈(Golija-Studenica Biosphere Reserve)位于塔拉山的塔拉国家公园(Tara National Park)欣赏莫克拉戈拉山(Mokra Gora)的最好方式是乘坐“复古号”列车河流塞尔维亚与波黑的界河德里纳河(Drina River)流经多个城镇的多瑙河(Danube River)塔拉山下的扎奥维纳湖(Zaovine Lake)修道院与教堂当然塞尔维亚最值得一看的是隐匿于深山中的中世纪修道院弗鲁什卡山的Velika Remeta弗鲁什卡山的克鲁谢多修道院(Krušedol Monastery)弗鲁什卡山的Grgeteg Monastery弗鲁什卡山的Novo Hopovo Convent位于东面的马纳西亚修道院(Manasija)以及中部的斯图代尼察修道院(Studenica)还有一些城镇内的东正和天主教堂红酒小镇的圣尼古拉斯教堂(St. Nicolas Church)诺维萨德的圣母玛丽天主教堂(St. Mary Catholic Church)贝尔格莱德圣萨瓦教堂(St. Sava Church)圣马可教堂(St. Mark)做塞尔维亚攻略花去了我相当多的精力和时间,所以下面我会尽可能详细地手把手教大家如何深度玩转塞尔维亚。

  • 0走着0 发表了 游记  · 2018-11-17 20:34

    55天中东欧19国纵贯线(从波罗的海到巴尔干半岛)

    承蒙版主厚爱,小文有幸登入环游欧洲主页,特此感谢!上回书说到穿越了中国腹地一万五千里之后,这回同样的长线旅行来到了比中国面积略大的欧洲。欧洲47个国家和地区中有着耀眼的西欧、俊朗的北欧、坚实的中欧和热辣的南欧,还有为数众多的20个东欧国家,在日月星河中散发着各自独特的韵味,在文化历史的长河中波澜不惊沧海桑田。虽然东欧的划分并没有一定之规,按照Lonely Planet的定义,北起爱沙尼亚,南至阿尔巴尼亚,西起捷克,东到俄罗斯的欧洲部分。这是一片充满着沉重的历史和惊喜不断的壮丽风光,又是蕴藏文化宝藏的美丽土地。55天路线图国家掠影 探索中东欧国家,更像是对欧洲灿烂历史文明的一次学习。古欧洲文化的精髓渗透进了这些国家的历史进程中。这就是为什么如今在西欧基本消失的古老欧洲的感觉,在东欧地区却尤为突出。近现代史又使苏联社会主义在这些边缘国家上抹上了一层红色,具有多重性格的复杂背景,让这片土地充满了神秘和戏剧性的色彩。这也是让人着迷和探究的原因。中东欧纵贯线涉及到21个国家,主要分为三段,北段是波罗的海三国,北邻北欧的芬兰湾沿波罗的海的东海岸,风景宜人;中段是中东欧的核心,西邻西欧的发达国家德国,东至欧亚分界,人文美食湖光山色;南段是巴尔干半岛,西自亚得里亚海东至黑海,既是纷繁战争的火药桶,又是美景无数的陶冶之地。爱沙尼亚(红瓦房顶的老城塔林)拉脱维亚(戈雅河谷中藏在松林深处的Turaida城堡)立陶宛(希奥利埃的十字架山)白俄罗斯(明斯克街景)波兰(奥斯维辛集中营日落)斯洛伐克(东欧最高峰上塔特拉山)捷克(清水环绕的CK小镇)奥地利(萨尔茨堡)斯洛文尼亚(雪山脚下的布莱德湖)匈牙利(布达佩斯的国会大厦)塞尔维亚(诺维萨德城堡上的多民族服装)波黑(莫斯塔尔的跳水者)克罗地亚(亚得里亚海中央的蓝洞)黑山(背靠“黑山”的科托尔海湾)阿尔巴尼亚(斯库台城堡上观布纳河)马其顿(奥赫里德湖日落)保加利亚(精美绝伦的里拉修道院)罗马尼亚(布加勒斯特的乡村博物馆)摩尔多瓦(欧洲最大酒窖之一克利科瓦酒庄)准备工作1、时间:在旺季刚过的9、10月份,游客渐少价格逐减,从北往南追着秋天走,温度落差不会太大,正是东欧风和日丽的好季节,也是性价比最高的时段。秋季的色彩更适合东欧的气质,到了10月中下旬,沿途的金秋景色令人难忘。2、路线:这次是一条一万五千里的中东欧路线。由于俄罗斯之前去过,乌克兰不安定,这次只是飞机经停不做旅行,总体途径19个国家。其中9个是申根国,故持有多次的申根签证,从申根国爱沙尼亚的塔林进入比较便利,10个非申根国除了白俄罗斯可以利用5天的过境签,其他的持有申根签都可以免签,其中塞尔维亚和波黑对中国是免签国,阿尔巴尼亚是4.1-10.31旺季限时免签。路线按照北段、中段和南段排序依次是:波罗的海三国的爱沙尼亚、拉脱维亚、立陶宛,过境白俄罗斯,东欧中部波兰、斯洛伐克、捷克、奥地利、斯洛文尼亚、匈牙利,巴尔干半岛的塞尔维亚、波黑、克罗地亚、黑山、阿尔巴尼亚、马其顿、保加利亚和罗马尼亚,最后在摩尔多瓦结束。在边境检查时一般都会停留半小时以上供两国之间出入境检查护照,我持有的申根多次签,均顺利通过,没有问题。3、交通:欧洲火车通票可以在其中的9个国家使用,中欧的奥地利、捷克还好,而东欧的很多国家火车并不发达,即使是距离很近的城市有时也需要转车,车很慢路途时间很长,车次又少,还经常会有临时取消或者中途停车的突发情况让人头疼。反而东欧的长途汽车相对便宜车次也多,所以本次考虑因地制宜的选择交通工具,火车汽车兼顾,于是就没有买火车通票的必要了。甚至有些长距离的坐飞机更合适,1个小时的飞机走陆路要8-10小时,价格相差几百块也是能接受的。值得注意的是有些邻国首都之间也未必都有直飞,转机就不值当了。相比之下,在西欧使用火车通票更为方便快捷,请参考我之前的行程《30天搭火车游欧洲》(参见末尾的往期回顾)。另外,两个人以上有条件的比较推荐自驾,方便去一些公共交通不便的景区,也可以节省不少等车候机的时间。4、货币:其中7个国家使用欧元,12个国家使用各自的货币,想预先换好是不现实的,所以带好足够的欧元现金(不超过1w欧即可不用申报),在第一站爱沙尼亚就破开零钱备用,非欧元国可以刷卡、用华夏卡当地免费取现金、一些地方可以用欧元抵、最后是用欧元兑换,几种方式兼顾的方法。其中华夏卡取现和刷卡是最划算的,当地欧元兑换往往因为遇到在车站或景区等地带兑换处的汇率都非常离谱,我就曾在刚到达塞尔维亚的车站时换汇,被坑了30%,而ATM机也要留意是否显示该银行要收取换汇手续费,大部分银行是没有的。很多地方是只收现金不能刷卡也不收欧元,所以取现是绕不开的问题,好在ATM机足够普及。5、语言:东欧20国各自都有本国语言,跟俄罗斯接壤的也说俄语,西部的会说德语、意大利语等等,英语在大多数旅行中是可以沟通的,但也有很多地方甚至是车站买票都要靠比划或者写下来。比如白俄罗斯的车站售票窗口,售票员宁可关窗不卖票也不想跟我讲英语,好多次买票都是遇到好心人过来帮忙翻译才买到票,实属不易。同样是白俄首都明斯克,机场和银行很多标识都会有中文令人惊奇,但住宿地连名称都没有标英文,要不是找人帮忙完全无法进住,着实头大了一回。所以这20来个都不是英语国家的地方,明显感觉到经纪发达的地方老百姓英语普及度高,落后的地方就比较困难了。事实上,当地说的什么语言对外国游客来说其实并不重要,用英语以不变应万变,在大多场合翻译软件并不现实,只能随机应变。6、手机:致命的旅行要素,但是3天一个国家的频率是没必要买当地电话卡的,中国的漫游30元封顶/天上谷歌还得翻墙,所以我买的是4张15天的欧洲上网卡,需要核实所包含的国家,没有一张卡是包含所有欧洲国家的,像波黑和摩尔多瓦就是没有卡能包含而不得不放弃的。大量上网时可以在旅店或咖啡,都有免费的WIFI,有些长途汽车上也是有WIFI的。网络不稳定的情况常有,就是要调整自己心态随遇而安了。7、时区:这是要留意的问题,12个国家按照中欧时间,7个是东欧时间,相差1小时,如果跨过10月底还有夏令时转换冬令时的问题,所以时刻要问自己我在哪?现在几点?10月28日这个周日既是罗马尼亚14年以来最严重的一次地震,也是欧盟最后一个夏令时的结束日,所以很值得纪念。8、住宿:一个人旅行,最佳选择就是十几个欧的青年旅社多人间,其实条件都很完备,还有厨房,往往地理位置极佳,旅游资讯充足,不认识几个朋友都难。两个人以上的选择更多,完全看个人喜好,东欧不少国家都兴住公寓,便宜舒适,非常推荐。这一趟住宿费用差距较大,最便宜的青旅是拉脱维亚首都里加,7欧元/晚还含早餐!还有几个国家的公寓只要20欧/晚。贵的是斯洛文尼亚首都卢布尔雅那公寓104欧/晚,还有中欧和克罗地亚的旅欧城市都比较贵。平均下来这次一个人是200RMB一晚,算比较经济的。地段基本都是靠近火车站或大巴站,即下车进店,不让行李在背上多待一分钟的原则。9、餐饮:我还是喜欢每到一个城市至少要保证一顿像样的餐厅用餐,以便品尝当地特色美食,对我来说餐厅跟景点同样重要,是旅行必不可少的一部分。除此之外也要准备一些方便的路餐,在徒步或是游览过程中保证定点吃饭。所以行李很少但背包基本都是满的,用来装吃的。东欧消费不高,所以有更多的机会尝试当地菜肴。10、景点:东欧很多地方都是夹杂着西欧的影响,又和俄罗斯前苏联有着各种渊源,经常会被称为所谓的“波罗的海凡尔赛”“东欧瑞士”等等,在西欧和俄罗斯的光环下,它们往往是第二志愿。对于已经走过西欧和俄罗斯的我,在景点的选择上更倾向于具有东欧独特性的地方,所以不少虽然美但个性不足的地方就基本省略了,比如一些首都如果不是交通需要就甩过。东欧的小国较多,以平原为主,壮观的自然风光不是很突出,主要以人文景观为主线,古堡、教堂每天都会出现在视野里,所以长途旅行要提醒自己不要陷入视觉疲劳。看多了会变成走马观花,可以在某处停下脚步,回味比盲目更走入内心。11、书籍:对只有一个背包的我来说,两本厚书实在嫌沉只得割舍在家,临行前囫囵吞枣的装进脑袋,一本是孤独星球的《东欧》作为导航,另一本是《世界简史》作为导游,工具和故事缺一不可,虽然只是皮毛,但一次性走过密集的众多国家还是尽可能做到对号入座。

  • rachelxr 发表了 游记  · 2018-12-15 22:44

    2018秋·免签小国藏着大大的能量(塞尔维亚:强烈推荐苏博蒂察!)(多多多多多图)

    游记链接路上的每个未知,都像盲盒抽中了隐藏款一样惊喜【捷克五日:布拉格/CK小镇】https://bbs.qyer.com/thread-3078929-1.html 预告片行前准备出行时间10.28 - 11.4签证还有什么比免签更友好的呢?拿起护照说走就走~机票每人往返不到五千,在出行前一个月怀着忐忑的心情买了战斗民族的航班,却在转机时看到了超美的莫斯科机场,刚刚下过雨就已经放晴,湿漉漉的地面反射出阳光和蓝天。此行四次飞机,名不虚传的每次都延迟起飞提前到达,此外还在从莫斯科到贝尔格莱德的航班上体验了一把落地鼓掌,但不得不说,其实飞的还是挺稳的,不用那么害怕~电话卡有了捷克的经验,这次老老实实买了当地的电话卡,虽然大部分时间手机上显示的也是2G的信号,但网速真真比移动的2G不知道快了多少倍。货币塞尔维亚本国货币第纳尔,在国内不能直接兑换,需要先换成欧元。我们换的时候大约是一欧元换108第纳尔左右,每次不用换太多,因为贝尔格莱德街上有很多换钱的地方,快用完的时候换就可以了,省的最后花不掉还要再换回欧元损失汇率差。住宿这次全程都住了民宿,一共换了四家,都通过airbnb预定,一一介绍。贝尔格莱德这家民宿在共和国广场旁边,紧挨着米哈伊洛大公街,楼下就是各种酒吧饭店,还有一家超市maxi。热心的房东妈妈用她不太流利的英文辛苦的向我们讲解民宿的坐标、游客中心的位置、以及她推荐的景点等等,还在纸上画了地图。最后退房的时候还主动提出帮我们打电话叫出租车,我才知道原来可以向房东提这个要求,这样真的是解决了不敢打车的问题,毕竟当地人不会叫到黑车。唯一的一个问题是,房东只给准备了很薄的毛巾被,以至于晚上我要盖着大衣睡觉,然后退房的时候房东妈妈居然说“这里的暖气太热了我都受不了”,我只想表示,人种还是有差异的。另外,算是此行房间面积最小的一家了,不过位于首都的市中心,就不能要求那么多对不对~诺维萨德超级帅的房东小哥!!比他自己自拍的头像帅100倍,千万不要被他的头像欺骗!以及非常细心周到,专门下来帮忙拿行李,拿了一件之后还说,我有两只手,可以再拿一个箱子~~房间也是超级有情调,小哥可能喜欢蓝色~有非常多各种各样的灯~一间阳台,本来想着早晨起来冲个咖啡泡个茶在阳台上看看风景,结果以起床失败告终。小哥房间里放了好多客人带来的纪念品,还有剪纸、脸谱、中国结,很受中国游客喜爱的一家民宿~不过确实推荐~~苏博蒂察看到这家民宿的第一反应是,风格好原始。苏博蒂察真的不是一个旅游城市,民宿的选择很少,这家离汽车站不算远,步行就可以到达。这次是房东的爸爸来车站接我们,所以这里很多都是年轻人负责线上的预定交流,父母负责线下接待,完美的分工哈哈。这家有一个非常民族风的客厅,沙发、椅子、展示柜,晚上忍不住冲了一杯咖啡坐在沙发边凹造型。房东的爸妈就住在隔壁,有天早晨出门碰到胖胖的房东妈妈慌慌张张出门,感觉就像是上班要迟到了一样,特别可爱。贝尔格莱德这是这次最现代的一个住处了,不论是房间装修还是设施,但电梯还是很原始。最尴尬的是上到十楼的时候等了一下没推门,然后电梯自己就下去了!!我还以为是楼下有人按了电梯,但到一楼开门一看,空空如也。于是只好默默的又按了一次十楼,这次完全不敢开小差,电梯一停立刻先把门推开!在塞尔维亚的最后一天突然不想出门,于是到楼下的超市买了零食,把电视调到唯一一个说英语的频道,然后很开心的窝在沙发里,拿出手机修了一下午图哈哈,此时只想说怎么当时忘了买一瓶啤酒回来~攻略大巴车票这次一共坐了三次城际大巴,全部都是到车站随买随走,基本买完票只要等十几分钟就可以出发,除了离开苏博蒂察时等了将近一个小时才发车。贝尔格莱德到诺维萨德:车程大概一个半小时,车票每人770第纳尔。诺维萨德到苏博蒂察:车程不到两小时,车票每人970第纳尔。苏博蒂察到贝尔格莱德:在售票窗口买的时候只顾着买最近的一趟车,但碰巧买到了一辆慢车,绕了非常多小镇子,几乎没怎么走高速路,停了非常多站,用了大概四个小时才到。车票每人1060第纳尔。另外要注意的是,行李箱要额外收费,每件行李60第纳尔。游记正文卡莱梅格丹每日报到在贝尔格莱德的每天都会来卡莱梅格丹城堡公园报到,第一次早晨来的新鲜,还有追逐落日失败的傍晚,以及喝着冰饮坐在长椅上看深蓝的夜空。作为贝市旅游攻略中TOP 1的景点,游人真的是很少很少了,更多的甚至是当地人,遛狗的、遛娃的、下棋的、看棋的、坐在长椅上发呆的,甚是惬意。国外的老头儿们下棋也喜欢站一圈围观,但不知道为什么有一个落单的,看着还有点伤感呢,想起了“孤单是一个人的狂欢,狂欢是一群人的孤单”。泽蒙夏尔朵什塔的放空泽蒙是一个安静的小镇,多瑙河边一字排开很多家餐厅,但中午时分顾客也很少,可能这里是专为游客准备的区域吧。挑了一家景色好些的,喝到了美味的鱼汤,吃到了欧洲特有的梭鲈鱼。服务生小哥特别好玩,我掏出自己的小本子看行前记下的美食推荐时,小哥也掏出了自己的小本子,上面标满了各国语言的发音注释,以便应对不同国家的客人,也算是非常认真了。绕了无数个旋转台阶爬上夏尔朵什塔,累到只想趴着休息放空。到国外玩总喜欢登各种各样的顶,不管是现代的最高楼,还是中世纪的各种塔,还有欧洲必备的市政厅,这里居然包场了。塞尔维亚的游客真的是少,之后几天还有各种各样的包场艺术馆博物馆。吃完饭在河边散步,看看一路追寻着食物的方向,为了抢食而打架的天鹅,慢节奏的生活真好。米哈伊洛大公街来到一个有秋天的地方真的好喜欢好喜欢啊Zepter Museum米哈伊洛大公街上的一个现代美术馆,买票进去以后发现包场整个美术馆,放眼望去只有展品和工作人员陪着我们,当然就意味着随意拍照都不用担心有合影。Who is society? There is no such thing...Zoom art cafe and photo studio这里是一家结合了咖啡馆和摄影棚的店,墙上的图片是拆解了的相机。点了一杯柠檬水,折合人民币11块钱,服务生妹子太实诚了,我在一旁眼睁睁看着她挤了整整两个柠檬进去,这酸爽无法言表,只觉得牙疼,强忍着挤出一丝笑意。看到菜单上有一种茶叫做almond pie,想问问是什么东西,可惜妹子google到最后也无力用英文解释出来,于是至今是个谜~多瑙河公园诺维萨德的阳光好到十月末还可以穿短袖。这里才是真正的秋天啊。在公园里兴冲冲的捡了好久的落叶,红黄绿色组合在一起,温暖的天气,柔和的阳光,这才叫生活啊。诺维萨德的日落在卡莱梅格丹城堡连续两天等日落失败以后,终于在诺维萨德完成了心愿。提前半小时抢占好有利位置,虽然并没有别人跟我抢,用双手充当起了人肉三脚架,蹲在墙边保持静止状态待了半个小时,为了拍摄效果,脚麻了都不敢动,虽然最后还是有些抖动,不过作为绕着世界追落日系列的第一个成品,我已经很满意了。钟楼的特别之处在于,长针表示小时,短针表示分针,所以现在是下午四点四十哦。蓝色多瑙河夜色下,真正的蓝色多瑙河。伏伊伏丁那博物馆在游客手册上被金光闪闪的头盔图片吸引,于是看完日落,赶在快要闭馆之前来到伏伊伏丁那博物馆。再一次包场博物馆,除了到最后的时候碰到了一群小学生,看上去像是放学后来参观博物馆的兴趣小组。万圣节来到了可能是全欧洲唯一一个不过万圣节的国家,买瓶饮料应个景吧~这里的纪念品商店真的是此行最喜欢的了,虽然这里是博物馆,但纪念品商店充满了浓浓的艺术感。非旅游城市的体验都已经忘了最开始是在哪里看到了苏博蒂察这个城市,只记得这里是临近匈牙利的地方,建筑风格都很有匈牙利的特色,所以就决定来这里看一看,但后期再研究的时候,却发现资料真的好少好少,几乎没什么介绍。到达苏博蒂察以后照例去游客中心想找找有没有城市介绍可以看,好不容易在市政厅的一楼找到了游客中心,但推不开门,透过玻璃向里张望,看到有工作人员坐在桌前,里面的小哥也看到了我,走来开门,说今天是非工作日,并指了指门上贴的告示。仔细一看真的忍不住笑了,告示写的是,市政厅第多少多少号会议决定,11月1日是非工作日。没了。。好任性的市政厅啊。。。我也想这么放假~在这座城市待的时间越长,越会觉得这里绝对不是一个旅游城市。跟泽蒙只有我们一桌客人还做功课学习各国语言的服务生小哥不同,占据了整个莱切利宫那么大并且都爆满的Top1餐馆里,竟不是每个服务生都会说英文,连比划带猜都不行,是那种听到英文就赶忙召唤别人过来的真不会说。绕着市中心的区域仔细寻找,才在一家小书店里看到了零星的冰箱贴和明信片在售卖,最终也没能找到能提供更多选择的第二家店。走在苏博蒂察的大街小巷,处处都在被围观,不管是老人萌娃还是年轻人中年人,总有一双双眼睛盯着你看,走过这么多国家和城市,这种体验还真的是第一次,内心终于理解了自己每次走在路上盯着外国人看时人家内心的OS。也再一次印证了这里是一座非旅游城市的标签,亚洲面孔在这里真的很少见,我们自己一路上都没见过其他中国人。爱死了苏博蒂察的每一条街道。当然苏博蒂察最吸引人的,还是它的建筑,先放上市政厅来镇楼,最后会专门讲讲分离派艺术。每日早餐Day 1 咖啡店都只卖咖啡来到塞尔维亚的第一个早上,看到一家特别大的咖啡店,便想着去顺便买点早餐,然而问了才知道,咖啡店就只卖咖啡,没有食物。一脸懵逼准备离开,店员小哥好心指给我们,前面有家店可以吃早餐。Day 2 下雨天温暖的热巧克力民宿就在繁华的米哈伊洛大公街上,最不发愁找不到的就是饭店,因为飘着小雨所以决定就近解决早餐。一开始看到室内有人抽烟,所以坐在了室外,但风雨交加,尽管店员帮忙拿了毯子披着,还是冷到无法坚持,不得已又进到室内。配着蜂蜜和搅拌棒的茉莉花茶。豪华版的华夫饼。Day 3 不喜欢不喜欢不喜欢还是在民宿周围觅食,早晨好多店都还不开门,这次走到了共和国广场旁的一家。店员一副爱理不理的样子,东西也不好吃。只有墙上的装饰画还能看看。Day 4 甜菜根胡萝卜蛋糕一早起来去找邮局寄明信片,恰巧看到隔壁就可以吃早餐,就直接走了进去。在塞尔维亚,去到的所有饭店服务生都会在点餐时建议,在正餐都吃完以后再决定要不要加甜点。这个操作真的非常良心了,因为几乎每顿饭都吃到撑,如果最开始就点了甜点,最后一定逃不过被浪费的结局。但也正因为如此,导致整个行程中,除了这次早餐,完全没有机会尝一尝这里的甜点。看到菜单有甜品,点了一款名为Raw Beetroot Carrot Cake的蛋糕。国外菜单有一个优点就是,会详细的列明这道菜里面都有什么原料,然后我们选了一个甜菜根、胡萝卜、椰子粉、红枣、肉桂、姜、cashew、杏仁、黄糖、香草和柠檬构成的神奇组合。超级实诚的可颂,在国内吃牛角包的感觉是还没吃就没了,在这里的感觉是吃了这么久怎么还有。Day 5 苏博蒂察的落叶依然是秉承哪家开门了就去哪家吃早饭的原则,点了健康餐,黑面包不出意料的咽不下去。拿铁也依然是满杯牛奶~但满地落叶的街道还是很美很美,风吹过看着黄叶飘落,怎能不听下来拍照。Day 6 歪打正着的塞尔维亚传统食品最后一天早晨,想着就在民宿楼下的咖啡馆随便吃点早餐,结果误打误撞进了一家只有塞尔维亚语菜单的店,还好店员小哥会说英语,以及选择并不是很多,于是连蒙带猜好不容易点完了餐。找了一周都没吃到的传统食品,在这里居然不小心都点到了。盛在彩绘杯子里需要配着白水才能喝的塞尔维亚传统的茶,以及Ajvar——用烤过的红彩椒制成的酱。顺便来看一下塞尔维亚传统咖啡,依然是要配着白水才喝的下去,小小一杯里面看得见的咖啡渣。。像中药。。。美食水果白兰地 Rakija塞尔维亚特色,作为不喝酒的人,点了好几次不同口味的,完全没喝出水果的区别,统统就只是白酒的味道,以及最多只能喝一口,真是无福消受,还是留给爱酒的同志们好了。Casa Nova @Beograd网红餐厅,有中文菜单,由于晚上不太饿,于是只点了一份牛肉烩饭和一份三文鱼意面,但真的真的不太好吃。烩饭的奶酪太多太腻了,意面看着也没太大食欲。问号酒馆 @Beograd同为网红餐厅,但菜品质量真是比casa nova好太多了。同样叫做Beef Goulash,可能因为目标客户是游客所以做法有改良,用土豆泥代替了捷克dumpling馒头片,总之一大锅无敌美味的牛肉只要五六十,真的是非常良心了。一盘mix香肠也是非常好吃~还点了Serbia Salad,端上来一看,就是碗底铺了一层黄瓜的凉拌西红柿~以及烤蔬菜,外国人民真的很喜欢烤茄子烤西葫芦吃,在各种店都是一样的套路。Trcika @Novi sad依旧是穷游锦囊上的推荐,电车车厢改造的咖啡馆,店名塞语的意思是“小跑者”,源于电车行驶的速度如此之慢,以至于人们跟着车厢就可以追上它。拍照很好看,而且外国人都喜欢坐在室外晒太阳,所以整节车厢都是你的啦~Restoran Terasa @Novi sad餐厅在彼得罗瓦拉丁要塞的最高处,坐在靠边的位置上,一面正对着要塞标志性的钟楼,一面可以远远眺望多瑙河对岸的诺维萨德市区。遇到一只爱吃牛肉不爱吃猪肉的小猫。Boss cafe @Subotica苏博蒂察排名第一的餐馆,虽然来之前总想着不要都去网红餐厅,但来了以后,真的除了排名靠前的餐厅,别的真的不知道能去吃什么。。Boss位于曾经的莱切利宫,现在是当地最火爆的一家餐馆。虽然院子里坐满了顾客,但似乎真的没什么游人,想找到一个能用英语交流的服务生都很难。但是,非常难得的,居然见到了米饭。科普苏博蒂察隐藏的彩蛋 - 分离派艺术多亏了放假还值班的苏博蒂察游客中心的好心小哥帮忙递出来的小册子,才有机会了解到分离派艺术,不然可能也就止步于“匈牙利风格的建筑”这个标签了。回来在百度搜索,信息真的寥寥无几,非常匮乏,所以就分享一下当地官方的讲解,虽然有很多中文翻译真的不是一个正常的表达。。分离派是于19世纪后期,20世纪前期,由加速工业化、城市化和快速变化的社会引起的。分离派反抗历史的僵化,这就是为什么分离派不依靠以前的美术,而是更受大自然的激发。分离派不仅是艺术风格,也是一种生活方式。分离派的特征包括郁郁葱葱、无限制的形状、曲线、波浪线以及不寻常的颜色组合。其重点在于不对称性,新材料和建筑技术的使用赋予了特殊的可塑性。分离派受不同民族的影响作出不同的形状,在奥地利被称为维也纳新艺术风格,在德国、法国和比利时被称为新艺术风格,在英国被称为现代风格,在意大利被称为花卉风格,在奥匈帝国被称为分离派。在世纪之交,整个欧洲的艺术、科学和其他领域的文化通过布达佩斯传到了苏博蒂察。在和平和经济复苏之时,在苏博蒂察也出现了建筑热,来自欧洲的变化慢慢的影响到了苏博蒂察建筑,但依然表现为两个主要风格。其中一个把慕尼黑、维也纳、巴黎以及伦敦视为榜样,另外一个则代表更强的爱国精神。欧洲分离派的表现更广泛,匈牙利式分离派仅由几个建筑代表,但都是关键性的建筑,这也帮助苏博蒂察成为了分离派之城,这些代表性的建筑包括市政厅、犹太会堂、莱切利宫以及银行大楼。跟很多欧洲城市不同的是,位于苏博蒂察中心的建筑并不是教堂,而是市政厅。市政厅的中央厅有16扇色彩鲜艳的玻璃,是洛特·米克绍和纳吉·山多尔画家的作品。市政厅分离派的装饰充满了匈牙利民间艺术的浪漫诠释,以及以陶瓷和锻铁制成的鲜花和花卉装饰图案。除了市政厅外,莱切利宫算是苏博蒂察第二引人注目的建筑了。莱切利宫本是费伦茨·莱切利为自己设计的办公室和家,按照匈牙利分离派的原则建造,灵感来自特兰西瓦尼亚的民间艺术:生动的彩绘房屋、雕花的大门,还有各种心形图案。莱切利是一个热爱生活和家庭的人,无论是旅行、文物还是家里的珍贵艺术品,他都不惜斥巨资装饰,这也导致入住仅仅四年以后,便因破产而搬离了自己亲手设计的宫殿。在这两座标志性的建筑物之外,苏波蒂察街上随便一座建筑拿出来都是好看的。写在最后其实这次行程,由于准备时间匆忙,塞尔维亚是最后被挑剩下的那个选择,却远远超出预期。相比其他几个城市,博物馆艺术馆各种商店,街上来来往往的人们,贝尔格莱德大城市的气息其实很浓。常年生活在雾霾之下完全体会不到什么叫我言秋日胜春朝,诺维萨德的阳光告诉你,我就是秋日本人。苏博蒂察这个小小的城市,是此行的最爱,每一条街道每一栋建筑甚至每一片落叶,都美的恰到好处。好看,人少,便宜,免签,不会失望的~最后的最后,再推荐一次苏博蒂察,虽然网上攻略很少,但如果去塞尔维亚,考虑留一天给这个城市吧~

  • 志留纪 发表了 游记  · 2019-08-09 00:35

    【干货】东欧巴尔干铁路口岸大起底。

    前言:刷巴尔干口岸即将进入第三个年头,说多不多说少也不少,正常口岸基本走了个遍,偏门的也即将完成,却发现似乎还有更多的未知等待探索,管他呢,能活一天算一天。为了方便筛选和关键词阅读,口岸名称用不同颜色表示。开放口岸配有谷歌地图,客运口岸尽量找到途径的车次信息,至于要怎么刷,你们自己看着办了。绿色标题:本人已刷过的口岸红色标题:开放的客运口岸(未刷)蓝色标题:开放的货运口岸灰色标题:已经关闭/尚未开放、已废弃、或者线路暂时/永久性停开的口岸刷口岸之前,你需要用到的一些铁路网站:俄罗斯铁路:https://pass.rzd.ru/main-pass/public/en 乌克兰铁路:https://booking.uz.gov.ua/en/白俄罗斯铁路:https://rw.by/en/拉脱维亚铁路:https://www.ldz.lv/en 立陶宛铁路:https://www.traukiniobilietas.lt/portal/波兰铁路:http://www.intercity.pl/en/ (被墙,请科学上网)斯洛伐克铁路:https://ikvc.slovakrail.sk/esales/search摩尔多瓦铁路:http://www.railway.md/ (见过最原始的一个国家铁路官网,基本毫无用处)匈牙利铁路:https://www.mavcsoport.hu/en罗马尼亚铁路:https://www.cfrcalatori.ro/en/ 塞尔维亚铁路:http://www.srbvoz.rs/redvoznje.html克罗地亚铁路:http://www.hzpp.hr/en# (鸡肋,完全查不到国际线,可用塞尔维亚官网或者德国代理网站查询)斯洛文尼亚铁路:https://www.slo-zeleznice.si/en/ (同上,基本查不到国际线,用德国代理网站)德国代理网站:https://reiseauskunft.bahn.de//bin/query.exe/en?/newrequest=yes最好具备一定量的英语阅读水平,或者打开有道或者谷歌翻译。有些口岸的历史注释还是挺有意思的。正文:PS:以下只根据本人喜好记录收集东欧巴尔干部分非申根区或者申根-非申根等可以拿到出入境章的国家口岸。Border Crossings: Russia – Ukraine:(Taganrog -) Uspenskaya RZD - Kvashyne UZ (- Ilovays'k)[E] Owing to the serious military situation in some areas of the Donbas, this line has no passenger traffic. It formerly carried several long distance trains.(Mikhaylo-Leonťevskaya -) Zakordonnyy RZD - 1092 Km UZ (- Dovzhans'ka)[D] This route is definitively closed.Gukovo RZD - Krasna Mohyla UZ[D] This route is now closed to passenger traffic owing to the serious military situation in some areas of the Donbas. It remained open to freight even after withdrawal of passenger services but it seems likely that it is now out of use. It carried one long distance train pair Simferopol’ – Sverdlovs’k and some long distance services on different days.(Likhaya -) Pleshakovo RZD - Izvaryne UZ (- Simeykyne)[D] This route definitively closed. It crossed the border three times between Pleshakovo and Izvaryne.(Millerovo -) 122 km RZD - Vil'khova UZ (- Kindrashivs'ka)[D] This route is definitively closed.(Millerovo -) Sheptukhovka RZD - 917 km [Chervona Zirka] UZ (- Chertkovo)[E] This route closed to all traffic in August 2017 when the RZD Zhuravka - Millerovo line, bypassing Ukrainian territory, opened. It was previously used by through RZD trains not stopping in Ukrainian territory.(Millerovo -) Chertkovo RZD - Zorynivka UZ (- Kantermirovka)[E] This route closed to all traffic in August 2017 when the RZD Zhuravka - Millerovo line, bypassing Ukrainian territory, opened. It was previously used by through RZD trains not stopping in Ukrainian territory.(Kantemirovka -) Gartmashevka RZD - z.p. 869 km UZ (- Chertkovo)[E] This route closed to all traffic in August 2017 when the RZD Zhuravka - Millerovo line, bypassing Ukrainian territory, opened. It was previously used by through RZD trains not stopping in Ukrainian territory.(Valuyki -) Vystrel RZD - Hrakivka UZ (- Lantrativka)[D] This route closed to passenger traffic on 18 April 2014 owing to the deteriorating political situation. It may still be open to freight. It carried one long distance train pair Luhans’k - Moskva on alternate days) and one train pair Mariupol’ - Voronezh on different dates.(Valuyki -) Solovey RZD - Topoli UZ (- Kup'ians'k)[E] It is thought that this route is closed to passenger traffic. It remains open to freight. It once carried 5 local train pairs between Valuyki and Topoli and some long distance trains.(Belgorod -) Nezhegol' RZD – Ohirtseve UZ (- Vovchans'k)[D] It is thought that this route is closed to passenger traffic. It carried one local train pair between Belgorod and Vovchans'k.(Belgorod -) Naumovka RZD - Kozacha Lopan' UZ (- Kharkiv)[E] This route carries several local and long distance trains. However, on 17 August 2018 the Ukrainian Government announced that all public transport links to Russia by rail and bus would be cut. No date has yet been set for the cessation.(Gotniya -) Khotmyzhsk RZD - Odnorobivka UZ (- Kharkiv)[D] This route closed to passenger traffic on 18 April 2014 owing to the deteriorating political situation. It was used by 1 local train pair.(Gotniya -) Ilek-Pen’kovka RZD – Pushkarne UZ (- Sumy)[D] It is thought that this route is closed to passenger traffic. It carried one daily UZ local train pair between Vorozhba and Gotniya.(Korenevo -) Glushkovo RZD - Volfyne UZ (- Vorozhba)[D] Under a bilateral agreement this crossing was available only to Russian and Ukrainian citizens from 1 April 2009. It closed to passenger traffic on 18 April 2014 owing to the deteriorating political situation. It carried one train pair (alternate days during high summer, twice weekly during the rest of the year) between Voronezh-1 and Kyïv, and 2 RZD local train pairs from L'gov to Lokot’ and Tetkino.(Khutir-Mykhaylivs'kyi -) Klevan’ UZ - Lokot’ (Russia) - Tetkino (Russia) - Vorozhba UZ[D] This is a UZ line which crosses the border 6 times. It is thought that it closed to passenger traffic on 18 April 2014 owing to the deteriorating political situation. It carried one RZD local train pair between L'gov and Lokot’ via Vorozhba without stopping in Ukrainian territory. There were no passenger service between Esman’ and Lokot’.(Bryansk-1-Orlovsky -) Suzemka RZD - Zernove UZ (- Khutir-Mykhaylivs'kyi)[E] This crossing is used by through trains between Moskva and Kyiv. Local services between Suzemka and Zernove had been abandoned by 6 March 2003. However, on 17 August 2018 the Ukrainian Government announced that all public transport links to Russia by rail and bus would be cut. No date has yet been set for the cessation.仅存的唯一开放的乌俄铁路口岸。乌克兰和俄罗斯铁路官网上都可以查询到相关车次。(Unecha -) Vitemlya RZD - Chyhynok UZ (- Khutir-Mykhaylivs'kyi)[D] Crosses the border 3 times. No passenger service since October 2003 and now thought to be out of use.(Novozybkov -) Klimov RZD - Karpovychi UZ (- Semenivka)[D] Out of use.Kavkaz RZD – Krym Kzd, formerly UZ {train ferry}Following the Russian annexation of Crimea, this crossing is now de facto an internal Russian ferry crossing.The ferry is operated by Anship Ltd. A through passenger service between Moskva and Simferopol’ via this route was introduced on 1 August 2014 but had been discontinued by the summer of 2016. Passengers for the Crimea now travel by bus to/from Anapa or Krasnodar. The train was transported empty on the train ferry; passengers had to disembark and cross the strait separately on a different ship.Owing to the hostilities between Russia and Ukraine, resulting in the withdrawal of all passenger trains to and from Crimea, and Russia's desire to create a permanent link to Crimea, contracts have been awarded for the construction of a multipurpose road/rail bridge over the Strait of Kerch. The bridge will be 19 km long, with a four lane road and double track railway. The initial plan had to be modified to take into account the weight of trains. Completion was scheduled for the end of 2018 but has now been delayed to the end of 2019.De Facto Border Crossings with CrimeaOwing to the annexation of Crimea, de facto border crossings not recognized internationally now exist at:(Dzhankoi –) Solone Ozero (Kzd) – Sivash (UZ) (– Novoalekseevka – Melitopol)The through passenger service between Moskva and Simferopol’ via this route was withdrawn presumably on 1 August 2014 and diverted via the Kavkaz – Krym train ferry. Cross-border local trains have been withdrawn; these now terminate at the last station on each side - Sivash (UZ) and Solone Ozero (Kzd).(Dzhankoi –) Armyans'k (Kzd) – Vadym (UZ) (– Kherson)Cross-border local trains have been withdrawn; these now terminate at the last station on each side - Vadym (UZ) and Armians'k (Kzd).—— —— —— —— —— —— —— —— —— —— ——Border Crossings: Estonia – Russia(Tallinn -) Narva ER - Ivangorod-Narvskiy RŽD (- Sankt-Peterburg)[D] Russian Railways run a daily Moskva – St Peterburg – Tallinn service, replacing the former GO Rail services after a period without trains of less than 2 months. RŽD runs to Narva.可是为何不管怎么查每一天都是sold out状态?(Tartu - Orava -) Piiroja ER - Pechory-Pskovskie RŽD (- Pskov)This direct line to Pechory-Pskovskie closed completely when the new Estonian border station of Koidula opened to traffic on 23 May 2011. It was replaced by a new connection from the Orava direction to Koidula.(Tartu - Orava -) and (Riga LDZ - Valga ER -) Koidula ER - Pechory-Pskovskie RŽD (- Pskov)[D] No cross-border passenger service. The new Estonian border station of Koidula opened to traffic on 23 May 2011 although the actual station building was not completed until July. Opening of the new connection from the Orava line to Koidula resulted in the complete closure of the direct connection from the Orava line to Pechory-Pskovskie, with its separate viaduct over the river which forms the border. Koidula is not listed as a border station in the legal agreement between Estonia and Russia because this was drawn up in 2002. It would need to be amended before any cross-border passenger services could start.Tartu - Orava passenger services were extended to Koidula with effect from 1 September 2011 and to Piusa, one station towards Valga, from 27 May 2012. Services between Valga and Koidula were expected to be introduced in 2014, but this had not happened as at May 2015.所以暂时不知道这个口岸啥情况,没客运服务肯定的了,有运货的吗?—— —— —— —— —— —— —— —— —— —— ——Border Crossings: Latvia - Russia(Riga - Gulbene -) Vecumi LDz - Purvmala RŽD (- Pytalovo - Pskov)[D] Line closed.(Rēzekne -) Kārsava LDz - Skangali RŽD (- Pytalovo - Pskov)[D] Freight only.(Rēzekne -) Zilupe LDz - Sebezh RŽD (- Novosokolyniki - Moskva)[D] This route carries one daily Riga - Moskva/St. Peterburg train pair, with an additional train to/from Moskva on a few days at peak periods.俄铁官网上也永远是sold out状态,拉铁官网倒是可以显示价钱,不过这价格有点。。。。—— —— —— —— —— —— —— —— —— —— —— ——Border Crossings: Belarus - LithuaniaAdutiškis BČ - Gudeliai LG (- Didžiasalis)[D] Line closed and lifted. Formerly carried through Lithuanian trains between Pabrade (see next item) and Didžiasalis, but these ceased in 2001.Lyntupy BČ - Geledne LG (- Pabrade)[D] Line closed and lifted. Formerly carried through Lithuanian trains between Pabrade and Didžiasalis (see previous item), but these ceased in 2001.(Maladzečna -) Hudagaj BČ - Kena LG (- Vilnius)[E] Used by trains between Vilnius and Minsk, and long distance services between Kaliningrad and various cities in Russia. Through 25kv AC EMU Electric passenger services commenced on 10 December 2017 following electric freights starting on 6 September 2017. BČ operates all cross border freight and loco hauled passenger trains to Kena.用白鹅铁路查出来的车次比较多,有几趟过路车。但是价格比立陶宛铁路官网的略贵。(Lida -) Benjakonī/Беняконі BČ - Stasylos LG (- Vilnius)[D] The Vilnius - Simferopoľ summer service ceased at the end of summer 2008. On 5 December 2011 a new border station was opened at the new (resited) Stasylos station, 1.3 km north of the former Šalčininkai halt and 5.5 km from the border, but all services to Stasylos were withdrawn on 1 January 2015. One train each way between Grodno/Гродна and Vilnius at weekends only was reintroduced from 6 June 2015, with no advertised stop between Vilnius and the Belarus border, but withdrawn from 14 November.Parėččė BČ - Senove LG (- Vilnius)[D] Line closed and cut at the border. LG works local passenger services as far as Marcinkonys. The line is out of use south of here. It formerly carried through Lithuanian trains between Vilnius and Druskininkai, but these ceased in 2001. BČ operates trains to Užberež, at km 99, just before the border.Parėččė BČ - Černuha LG (- Druskininkai)[D] Line closed and lifted at Druskininkai. Formerly carried through Lithuanian trains between Vilnius and Druskininkai, but these ceased in 2001. Until 2008 BČ operated trains at weekends to a platform just before the border at "km7"—— —— —— —— —— —— —— —— —— —— —— ——Border Crossings: Lithuania - Russia(Kazlų-Rūda -) Kybartai LG - Chernyshevskoye RŽD (- Chernyakhovsk)[E] As at October 2017 RŽD worked passenger and freight to Kybartai, though in previous years changes have taken place at Nesterov. But note a new Russian border station immediately on the Russian side of the frontier at Chernyshevskoye was commissioned on 2 October 2017, having been under construction since 2005. Border formalities were previously undertaken at Nesterov, 10 km west.It is a curiosity that until 1918 eastbound trains entered the Russian Empire at this border, but since 1990 one travels westwards over the same border to enter Russian territory. Until 1945, Chernyshevskoye was Eydtkuhnen, the easternmost station in the former German Empire. This line is planned to be electrified by 2021.立陶宛铁路和俄铁上都能够查询。(Radviliškis -) Pagėgiai LG - Sovetsk RŽD[D] Freight only. One train a day each way uses this crossing. LG works to Sovetsk. A RŽD organised test passenger train bookable by the public ran between Kaliningrad/Sovetsk and Klaipeda, outbound on the 5th, return on the 7th January 2018 with a change to a LG train at Sovetsk but as at June 2018 nothing further has materialised.—— —— —— —— —— —— —— —— —— —— —— ——Border Crossings: Belarus - Latvia(Vitebsk -) Bihosava BČ - Indra LDz (- Daugavpils)[D] The passenger service on this route ceased as from 27 May 2007 [2]. Throughout the 2010 timetable period Hafas showed Train 388 running on even dates from Riga to Gomel and Train 387 running on even dates from Gomel but it is doubted these actually ran. A service was reintroduced by this route between Riga and Minsk from 1 June 2011. The LDz journey planner showed this as running on alternate days (whereas Hafas showed it running daily) during the summer and also on certain dates at holiday times. From 1 June 2012 these trains run daily.拉脱维亚铁路和白鹅铁路官网都能查询。—— —— —— —— —— —— —— —— —— —— —— ——Border Crossings: Belarus - Poland(Vawkavysk -) Bersetovitsa BČ - Zubki Białostockie PKP (- Białystok)[E] Line closed. Broad and standard gauges crossed the border on one interlaced track. It is not known when a passenger service, if any, was withdrawn. Freight traffic was withdrawn from 1 January 1998 and the internal PKP passenger service to Zubki Białostockie ended on 1 April 2000.(Brest-Severnyy -) Brest Pólnocny BČ - Terespol PKP[E] Freight only. Both gauges cross the border, but with interlaced track over the single track bridge spanning the river Bug, which forms the border. Standard gauge track extends in a loop via Brest-Severnyy to both Brest station and connecting with the crossing below.Brest BČ - Terespol PKP[E] Both gauges cross the border, but with interlaced track over the single track bridge spanning the river Bug, which forms the border. BČ works all freights to substantial yards to the west of Terespol. A gauge-changer was installed at Brest station early in 2015 for use by a new Moskva - Berlin Talgo service which started operation on 17 December 2016.It was thought only PKP worked the passenger services to Brest, however, a BČ M62 and coaches formed the afternoon departure from Terespol in November 2014. Later sightings were the morning service to Brest in August 2017 formed by a PKP loco hauling BČ coaches, and the same combination for the 7am ex Brest in June 2019 so the compilers would greatly appreciate additional confirmed sightings of loco hauled passenger services at Terespol, and if BČ hauled on which gauge.波兰铁路和白鹅铁路都可查询。便宜的这趟车只到Brest,需自己再次转车前往Minsk。还是白鹅铁路好,有价格显示。(Brest -) Visoko-Litovsk BČ - Czeremcha PKP[D] Belarusian Railway has advised of plans to reopen this crossing to freight in the fourth quarter of 2019 as an alternative route for increasing container traffic between China and Europe via Belarus. The article goes on to say cross border facilities had been withdrawn in 2011 which coincides with the cross border passenger service withdrawal at the December 2011 Timetable change. Since then a Polish railtour ran to the Border in April 2013 clearing the tracks of snow confirming it was not un use. Previously one through PKP pair of trains to Brest had been replaced in December 2002 by two pairs and a change of trains from PKP to BČ at Vysoko-Litowsk because of problems with smugglers, even though the route has 1435mm gauge tracks to Brest.(Volkovysk -) Svisloch BČ - Cisowka PKP (- Hajnówka)[D] Freight Only. Separate parallel Broad and Standard Gauge tracks cross the border, the Kolej Atlas showing Standard Gauge tracks reaching Svisloch BČ and Broad Gauge leading to Transfer yards west of Siemianówka PKP. Current status of the Standard Gauge is unknown but there have been recent announcements of works to improve the cross border tracks and interchange facilities in this area.(Grodno -) Bruzgi BČ - Kuźnica Białostocka PKP (- Sokółka)[E/D] This route has both 1435 mm (electrified) and 1520 mm (unelectrified) gauge tracks between Grodno and Sokółka. Cross border freight traffic is either regauged at Kuźnica Białostocka or transferred at Sokółka.PKP PR Kuźnica Białostocka <> Grodno local trains were discontinued at the December 2015 timetable change as they were to be replaced by PKP IC services between Warszawa and Grodno. However, these did not start as planned owing to funding issues. Eventually a Kraków <> Grodno portion of the Krakow <> Suwalki train was reinstated from 4 Sept 2016.波兰铁路和白鹅铁路都可查询。格罗德诺到比亚韦斯托克的火车经过这个口岸,延长线可去往克拉科夫。—— —— —— —— —— —— —— —— —— —— —— ——Border Crossings: Belarus – Russia(Polock -) Alešča BČ - Kľastica RŽD (- Neveľ)[D] Freight only. Cross-border RŽD services between Alešča and Velikie Luki were discontinued in 2015 and RŽD services cut back to Neveľ. However, there are two local BČ train pairs between Polock and Alešča.The Kaliningrad-Sankt Peterburg train pair, formerly reported as running via this route, was diverted via the Yezerišče - Neveľ crossing in May 2003.(Vitebsk -) Yezerišče BČ - Neveľ RŽD[D] Several long distance trains run via this route.布雷斯特、明斯克开往圣彼得堡、摩尔曼斯克的线路走这个口岸。俄罗斯铁路和白鹅铁路都能查询。(Vitebsk -) Zayoľša BČ - Rudnja RŽD (- Smolensk)[D] Several long distance trains run via this route, plus two local train pairs between Vitebsk and Smolensk.波洛茨克到莫斯科的火车通过该口岸,途径斯摩棱斯克。俄罗斯铁路和白鹅铁路都可查询。(Orša -) Osinovka BČ - Krasnoe RŽD (- Smolensk)[E] This is the main route between Minsk and Moskva.俄罗斯铁路和白鹅铁路官网都可查询。布雷斯特、明斯克往莫斯科方向开的火车通过此口岸。(Kričev -) Šesterovka BČ - Osja RŽD (- Roslavľ)[D] No traffic across the border. One local service each way runs at the weekend between Kričev and Šesterovka.(Kričev -) Belynkovči BČ - Suraž RŽD (- Uneča)[D] This route sees one daily BČ train pair between Kričev and Uneča, one daily UŽ train pair between Belynkovči and Uneča, and one long distance train pair on alternate days between Grodno and Uneča.这车找不到信息,是否存在存疑。(Gomeľ -) Dobruš BČ - Zlynka RŽD (- Brjansk)[D] This route sees one daily BČ train pair between Gomeľ and Zlynka plus a number of long distance services.妈蛋突然记起来俄罗斯白俄罗斯不设边检。。白看了这堆,不看了不查了。。—— —— —— —— —— —— —— —— —— —— —— ——Border Crossings: Belarus - Ukraine(Homeľ -) Tserakhovka BCh - Schors UZ (- Bakhmach)[D] This route carries one daily BCh train pair between Homeľ and Schors and one daily UZ train pair between Konotop and Homel’. There are also several long distance trains.白鹅铁路可以查询(我没上俄铁看)。周末有短途车,平时有长途车。他妈的我服了中文地名的翻译了,Snovsk翻成肖尔斯,害我找了大半天是什么鬼。(Homeľ -) Tserukha BCh - Hornostaïvka UZ (- Chernihiv)[D] This route carries one daily BCh train pair between Homel’ and Chernihiv and several long distance services.圣彼得堡-基辅以及明斯克-敖德萨的车走这个口岸。白鹅铁路官网可以查询。(Ovruch -) Yolcha BCh - Slavutych UZ (- Chernihiv)[E] UZ runs passenger trains between Yolcha and Chernihiv, plus 5 corridor trains from Slavutych to Semykhody (Chernobyl zone).(Chernihiv -) Posudovo BCh - Semykhody UZ[E] 5 corridor trains from Slavutych to Semykhody. It is not known if use of these trains without permission is allowed. Formerly carried UZ trains between Chernihiv and Ovruch, the line westward of Semikhody is now abandonned.(Kalinkovichy -) Slavechna BCh - Vystupovychi UZ (- Ovruch)[D] This route carries one daily BCh train pair between Baranavichy and Korosten’. There are also long distance trains on different days.白鹅铁路可以查询。里加到基辅的车走这个口岸。剩下的什么明斯克-鸡西那屋的车搜不到。(Luninets -) Goryn' BCh - Udryts'k UZ (- Sarny)[D] This route sees one daily BCh local train pair between Baranavichy and Udrits'k, one daily UZ local train pair between Goryn' and Sarny, and some long distance services on different days.巴拉诺维奇到乌德里齐克的通勤火车,以及两条长线(明斯克-瓦尔纳、莫吉廖夫-利沃夫)经过该口岸,白鹅铁路官网可查。(Brest -) Khatsislav BCh - Zabolottya UZ (- Koveľ)[D] Four local train pairs run between Brest and Zabolottya, and one train pair between Khatsislav and Zabolottya. The long distance service between Brest and Chernovtsy ceased in May 2007.该口岸没有到科威尔的车了,只能搜到边境小镇。一天两趟,白鹅铁路官网可查。—— —— —— —— —— —— —— —— —— —— —— ——Border Crossings: Moldova – Romania(Chişinău -) Ungheni CFM - Cristesti Jijia CFR (- Iaşi)[D] The track is dual 1435/1520 mm gauge between Ungheni and Socola marshalling yard on the eastern outskirts of Iaşi. CFR operates 1435mm gauge local trains twice daily to Ungheni. CFM introduced a daily 1520 mm gauge train between Chişinău and Socola on 30 September 2015 during weekends; see Obscure Services for details. There is also a through train 3 times a week (MWFO eastbound; TThSuo westbound) between Chişinău and Bucuresti, which changes gauge at Ungheni.摩尔多瓦铁路官网可查时刻及价格。基希纳乌 <-> 布加勒斯特:难度指数:⭐️(去火车站就能买,每天一趟)舒适程度:⭐️⭐️⭐️(卧铺包厢,国内段可能有人共享座位,到边境之前就下完了,然后你就可以自己躺一个厢)价格指数:⭐️⭐️⭐️(674摩尔多瓦Lei,约人民币250+元,我感觉被黑了,当时我没查,怎么感觉被卖了个一等座的钱)运行时间:⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️(13+小时)晚上可以把门锁起来。(Basarabeasca -) Prut-2 CFM - Fălciu CFR (- Bârlad)[D] The track between Prut-2 and Fălciu was dual 1435/1520 mm gauge. The 1435 mm gauge lines are reported as disused and cut in places, but a service was re-introduced on the 1520 mm gauge line in 2010. No service in the 2011-2012 timetable or the 2012-2013 timetable. This crossing was previously officially permitted only to Romanian and Moldovan citizens, but was reported in 2010 as available to citizens of other countries.(Reni (Ukraine) -) Giurgiuleşti CFM - Galaţi CFR (- Barboşi)[D] A 1520mm gauge freight-only line runs from the Danube port at Galaţi (Romania) to the transhipment area of Giurgiuleşti (Moldova) and continues to Reni (Ukraine). The Galaţi - Giurgiuleşti section was converted to dual 1435/1520 mm gauge in 2014, with a gauge changer at Giurgiuleşti, and the first through train (conveying fuel tanks) ran in September 2014.Border Crossings: Moldova - Ukraine(Lipcani -) Criva CFM - Mamalyha UZ (- Chernivtsi)[D] CFM operates to Mamalyha. The local service between Ocnita and Chernivitsi was withdrawn by August 2013. In summer 2014 the overnight train 117/118 Chernivtsi - Kyiv was introduced on this transit route through Moldova from Mamalyha to Larga.这趟火车要借道上面说的那个口岸,但是不知道能不能得章?并没有标有摩尔多瓦的站点的样子。。(Chernivtsi -) Lipcani CFM - border - border - Medveja CFM (- Larha)[D] CFM operates to Mamalyha. The local service between Ocnita and Chernivitsi was withdrawn by August 2013. In summer 2014 the overnight train 117/118 Chernivtsi-Kyiv was introduced on this transit route through Moldova from Mamalyha to Larga.Medveja CFM - Larha UZ[D] CFM operates to Mamalyha. The local service between Ocnita and Chernivitsi was withdrawn by August 2013. In summer 2014 the night train 117/118 Chernivtsi-Kyiv was introduced on this transit route through Moldova from Mamalyha to Larga.上面三个都是一趟车借道摩尔多瓦的铁路,但是不知道能不能得章,按照一般常理应该不能。Ocniţa CFM - Sokyriany (Ukraine) - Larha UZ[D] CFM operates to Larha.嗯。。搜不到。。(Ocniţa -) Vălcineţ CFM - Mohyliv-Podil’s’kyi UZ (- Zhmerynka)[D] UZ operates to Ocniţa, although Moldovan border formalities are performed at Vălcineţ.一天两趟,基希纳乌开往莫斯科的火车通过该口岸。乌克兰铁路官网可查。(Rybniţa -) Kolbasnaja CFM - Timkove UZ (- Slobidka)[D] Freight only. CFM operates to Slobidka. Note that this line passes through Transdnistria between Rybniţa and Kolbasnaja.(Tiraspol -) Novosavickaia CFM - Kuchurhan UZ (- Rozdil’na)[E] CFM operates to Kuchurhan.Note that Tiraspol is the "capital" of Transdniestria; passport checks and the police registration are carried out here at the station, and not in the train.The CFM lines from (Ungheni -) Revaca and from (Căinari –) Căuşeni cross into Transdniestria at Tighina/Bender 2 and Tighina/Bender 1 respectively. Moldova does not recognise Tighina/Bender as a border and does not check trains terminating here. Trains 642SH/642SZ (Odessa <> Chişinău) run via this route through Transdniestria. Border checks on these trains are carried out at Bulboaca, one station west of Bender 2.Owing to disagreements between Moldova and Transdniestria, local trains between Chişinău and Bender now use the new station of Bender-3, just on the Moldovan side of the de-facto border. Passengers to and from the town of Bender must travel on foot via the official road crossing. 先经过德涅,似乎无章。乌克兰官网可查。(Căinari -) Iserlia CFM - Karabutseny (Ukraine) - 121 km (Ukraine) - Basarabeasca CFM[D] CFM operates throughout between Căinari and Basarabeasca.一天两趟通勤小火车经过该口岸,乌克兰官网可查。Basarabeasca CFM - Serpneve I UZ (- Berezyne - Artsyz)[D] Closed to all traffic in 1997 and lifted in 1999. An agreement to reopen the line between Basarabeasca and Berezyne was signed in October 2015. The work was to be done in 2017 but has been postponed owing to lack of funding. This would have enabled traffic between the two countries to avoid passing through the breakaway territory of Transnistria.(Basarabeasca - Taraclia -) 208 km CFM - border - Bolhrad (Ukraine) - border - Greceni CFM (- Etulia)[D] One CFM local train pair runs daily between Basarabeasca and Etulia. This crossing is officially permitted only to local citizens, but normally other European nationals are tolerated. Succesful journeys from Reni to Basarabeasca have been reported.查询不到相关信息,来个大神。(Basarabeasca -) Etulia CFM - Frykatsei UZ (- Reni)[D] Two CFM local train pairs run daily between Etulia and Reni. This crossing is officially permitted only to local citizens, but normally other European nationals are tolerated. Succesful journeys from Reni to Basarabeasca have been reported.依旧搜不到相关车次,摩尔多瓦乌克兰这边死角太多。(Galaţi (Romania) -) Giurgiuleşti CFM - Reni UZ[D] A 1520 mm gauge freight only line runs from the Danube port at Galaţi (Romania) to the transhipment area of Giurgiuleşti (Moldova) and continues to Reni (Ukraine).—— —— —— —— —— —— —— —— —— —— —— —— ——Border Crossings: Poland - RussiaBraniewo PKP - Mamonowo RŽD (- Kaliningrad)[D] Mainly two different gauge parallel single-tracks, but see RU19/01 for details of separate approach routes to Kaliningrad. The 1435mm gauge line was used by a seasonal Berlin – Gdynia – Kaliningrad passenger service until it ceased running during 2012. The exact end of the RŽD 1520mm gauge track in Poland is not known although it is definitely out of use from some point just south of Braniewo to Bogaczewo, but cross border freight was seen running on both gauges in July 2013.RŽD works all BG cross border freight, and on the SG, prior to the 2012 passenger closure PKP worked to Mamonowo RŽD, with a RŽD standard gauge M62 diesel to and from Kaliningrad. Since then the limited ongoing charters have been observed using PKP SM42's right through to Kaliningrad so what works the SG freight in Russia is not known.A Test train bookable by the public was run between Kaliningrad and Gdynia via a change of train at Braniewo [i.e. the RŽD DMU worked across the Border on the Broad Gauge] on 5 January 2018. Press coverage suggests this was related to running cross border trains during the Football World Cup in June 2018 as Kaliningrad hosted some Group games but nothing materialised.Bartoszyce PKP - Bagrationovsk RŽD (- Kaliningrad)[D] Disused freight only line. 1435mm gauge track is severed just north of Bagrationovsk, 1520mm gauge tracks reached a factory just north of Bartoszyce (interlaced with the 1435mm gauge track). There has been no traffic on either gauge to the north of Bartoszyce since at least 1998, although an enthusiasts special managed to reach the Border on the standard gauge tracks in May 2003.Skandawa PKP - Zheleznodorozhny RŽD[D] Freight only. PKP works on 1435mm gauge to Zheleznodorozhny with standard gauge RŽD diesels onwards to the exchange sidings to the south of Chernyakhovsk. In Poland 1520mm gauge extends to exchange sidings to the north and east of Skandawa station with a connecting standard gauge branch. Viewed in May 2003, no traffic crosses the border on the broad gauge.—— —— —— —— —— —— —— —— —— —— —— —— ——Border Crossings: Poland - Ukraine(Chełm -) Dorohusk PKP - Yahodyn UZ (- Kovel')[D] The cross-border section comprises one 1435 mm gauge track and one 1520 mm gauge track. 1435 mm gauge track extends eastwards to a shipment yard at Kovel, 59 km east of Yahodyn. 1520 mm gauge track extends westwards to an oil installation a few km west of Chełm. Both lines are used by freight over their full length. The 1435 mm gauge track is electrified as far as Dorohusk.PKP operates a long standing Warszawa - Kyïv overnight service on the 1435mm gauge tracks to/from Yahodyn, where gauge changing takes place by means of bogie exchange. The train thus changes to/from PKP diesel traction for the short cross-border journey; this is the only PKP operated passenger service east of Chelm.A daytime pair of Ukrainian DMUs was introduced on 12 June 2017 between Kovel and Chelm, coinciding with the end of visa requirements for Ukrainians. From 24 August 2017 this was extended within Ukraine to run from/to Zdolbuniw. This was the first passenger service since at least June 2000 to use the 1520 mm gauge track across the border.基辅-华沙的067K火车途径该口岸。乌克兰火车官网可查。(Sławków -) Hrubieszów LHS - Izov LHS[D] This 1520mm gauge line is the "Linia Hutnicza Szerokotorowa" (Broad-Gauge Steel Line) between Sławków near Katowice and Vladimir in Ukraine. A limited long distance International passenger service ended a number of years ago, so current use is just freight and "road-train" services. Letters of Intent to electrify from Kowel in the Ukraine to Hrubieszów were signed in April 2017. In 2009 cross border staff trains ran to the railway carriage works at Hrubieszów Towarowy from Izov with timings based on shift patterns but it is not recommended to attempt to travel due to Ukraine Border controls. This line was formerly part of PKP and was called "Steel and Sulphur Railway".Hrebenne PKP - Rava Rus'ka UZ[D] The PKP-operated 1435mm gauge through service to/from Warszawa which only commenced on 2 June 1996 was withdrawn after 3 June 2005. No freight traffic can operate, as the tracks to the interchange sidings at Rava Rus'ka have been lifted.Werchrata PKP - Rava Rus'ka UZ[D] A Broad gauge freight only crossing, now worked by UZ only and in 2006 with just a daily freight to a factory at Werchrata. The 1520 mm lines on the Polish side serving transhipment sidings are all out of use.(Przemyśl -) Medyka PKP - Mostys'ka 2 UZ (- L'viv)[E] PKP and UZ operate a daily overnight service between L'viv/Lvov and both Wrocław and Warszawa. The 1435 and 1520 mm gauge lines, which take different alignments within Poland, were previously used on alternate days in each direction: in one direction the train changed gauge at Mostys'ka 2 by means of an open air SUW 2000-compatible gauge changer, and in the other direction the other train the same night performed a manual bogie change at Przemyśl. This arrangement ended, as the SUW 2000 equipment was observed to be out of use in October 2017. However, in April 2018 the overnight L'viv/Lvov services were observed using the Mostys'ka 2 gauge changer. The Przemyśl Główny arrival/departure sheets confirmed use of only standard gauge platforms but this of course does not preclude use of the gauge changer at Przemyśl. See Lines with Obscure or Sparse passenger services (Przemyśl Główny –) Hurko – Medyka (– Mostys'ka 2).From 23 December 2016 UZ introduced a direct Kyiv - L'viv - Przemyśl daytime Intercity service, using a modern 1520 mm gauge EMU with on board customs control. This service was doubled on 24 August 2017, when Ukrainian Citizens no longer needed visas to visit the EU, the additional service serving a different route between L'viv and Kyiv.UZ works broad gauge freight trains to yards within Poland and PKP works standard gauge freights to Mostys'ka 2 (at least one of the two cross border tracks is interlaced). On the Polish side the 1520 mm gauge continues to Zurawica; on the Ukrainian side 1435 mm gauge track ends at a transhipment facility 3km east of Mostys'ka 2 station.以上车次途径该口岸。乌克兰铁路官网可查。(Przemyśl) Malhowice PKP - Nyzhankovychi UZ (- Dobromyl' - Khyriv)[D] Closed as a through route, formerly interlaced dual gauge 1435/1520mm. Until early 1995, PKP operated a 1435mm gauge Warszawa - Zagorz corridor train through Ukraine via this route and the Krościenko - Star'iava crossing. By July 2004, significant lengths of the 1435mm gauge track within Ukraine had been lifted north of Dobromyl', with PKP 1435mm gauge carriage sidings and freight remaining on a stub from Przemyśl to Przemyśl Bakończyce. Following the lifting of Visa restrictions on Ukrainians there has been a suggestion this route may reopen to passengers and on the Polish side, all trees etc were cleared from the track in Autumn 2016 triggering some repair work by UZ, so by December 2018 there have apparently been ten cross-border Przemyśl to Nyzhankovychi trains with politicians, tourists, journalists and volunteers on board. The Polish government now has plans to rebuild this Line [to Nyzhankovychi only?] and is apparently discussing the work required with the Ukrainians.(Sanok - Ustrzyki Dolne -) Krościenko PKP - Star'iava UZ (- Khyriv)[D] This line has been closed to all traffic since 9 November 2010 but with Ukrainian Visa restrictions lifted, SKPL operated a special to Khyriv on 25 June 2017 so reopening may be being considered. PKP had operated 1435mm gauge local passenger services between Sanok (Zagórz before 2004/2005) and Khyriv but lately only freight trains ran between Sanok and Ustrzyki Dolne. A 1520mm gauge track is interlaced with the 1435mm gauge track between Stariava and Khyriv for the internal UZ passenger service of two trains per day. See also the Malhowice - Nizhankovichi crossing.—— —— —— —— —— —— —— —— —— —— —— —— ——Border Crossings: Slovakia - Ukraine(Veľké Kapušany -) Maťovce ŽSR - Pavlovo UZ (- Uzhorod)[E] The route across the border was separate dual gauge 1435/1520mm tracks but the 1435mm gauge tracks have been out of use since at least 2003 and are now partially lifted or unusable in the Ukraine. There is no passenger service across the border and the majority of traffic is 1520mm gauge freight to the VSŽ (now U.S. Steel) Steelworks near Košice, though there are substantial gauge-changing and transfer facilities in the Maťovce area.(Košice -) Čierna nad Tisou ŽSR - Chop UZ[E] This route and the station area at Chop are dual gauge 1435/1520mm. Passenger services are 1435mm gauge, operated by ŽSR with two train pairs daily to Chop in the 2018-19 timetable with two additional through standard gauge Košice to Mukachevo in Ukraine services commencing from 9 June 2019. Any through services further into Ukraine involve carriages being gauge changed via a shunt out of and into the east end of Chop station. Freight traffic uses the 1520mm gauge tracks to and from the gauge-changing and transfer facilities in the Čierna nad Tisou area. There is 1435mm gauge freight traffic from Čierna nad Tisou via Chop to both Mukachevo in Ukraine and Halmeu in Romania.有直达的有转车的,一天四趟经过该口岸,斯洛伐克铁路官网可查询购买。—— —— —— —— —— —— —— —— —— —— —— —— ——Border Crossings: Hungary - Romania(Mátészalka - Kocsord - Fehérgyarmat -) Zajta MÁV - Satu Mare CFRLine closed and lifted. It is interesting to note that after World World 1 and the peace treaty of Trianon, the line between Fehérgyarmat and Zajta was cut off from the remainder of the Hungarian railway network, because the line from Kocsord to Fehérgyarmat was only built in the late 1920s.Csenger MÁV - Satu Mare CFRLine closed and lifted.(Mátészalka -) Tiborszállás MÁV - Carei CFR[D] MÁV works to Carei. The MÁV border station was Ágerdömajor until 31 January 2004, since when no trains have called there. Prior to 1 June 2004 use of this border crossing was restricted to local residents, but since then it has been available to all citizens of Romania and the European Union.匈牙利铁路官网可查,火车直接搜Mátészalka到Carei,一天三趟(注意:中间那个转车1次的不走这个口岸,所以只有两趟可以拿到这个口岸的章)。(Debrecen -) Nyírábrány MÁV - Valea lui Mihai CFR (- Carei)[D] MÁV works to Valea lui Mihai.匈牙利铁路官网可查,搜Carei-Debrecen,只有不需要转车的这两趟走该口岸。Nagykereki MÁV - Episcopia Bihor CFRLine abandoned after World War 2.(Püspökladány -) Biharkeresztes MÁV - Episcopia Bihor CFR (- Oradea)[D] CFR works to Biharkeresztes. Note that reservations are required when travelling from Budapest/Püspökladány towards Romania.买布达佩斯-Oradea(或者克卢日纳波卡)的直达车可通过该口岸。匈牙利铁路官网可查。布达佩斯 <-> 克卢日纳波卡:难度指数:1.5⭐️(提前一天买就可以,Keleti出发的要起床很早,最好住在火车站附近)舒适程度:0.5⭐️(包厢式座位,6个人挤一个包厢,而且从头到尾都是满人的)价格指数:⭐️⭐️⭐️(12188福林,约人民币280+元)运行时间:⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️(大约9小时)Körösnagyharsány MÁV - Cheresig CFRLine closed and lifted.(Békéscsaba -) Kötegyán MÁV - Salonta CFR[D] MÁV works to Salonta.匈牙利铁路官网可查。刷章可购买从久洛或者贝凯什乔包到萨隆塔的火车通过该口岸,一天两趟。Kötegyán MÁV - Ciumeghiu CFRLine lifted after World War 1, in the 1920s.(Kétegyháza -) Elek MÁV - Grăniceri CFR (- Nădab)Line closed and lifted. Passenger trains work within Romania as far as Grăniceri, operated by S.C. Regiotrans S.R.L.(Békéscsaba -) Lőkösháza MÁV - Curtici CFR (- Arad)[E] MÁV works to Curtici.可购买蒂米什瓦拉往返布达佩斯的直达火车通行该口岸,一天两趟。匈牙利铁路或罗马尼亚铁路官网可查。蒂米什瓦拉 <-> 布达佩斯:难度指数:⭐️(提前一天买就可以,一天两趟)舒适程度:⭐️(硬座,但人不多)价格指数:⭐️(70罗马尼亚Lei,人民币110+元)运行时间:⭐️⭐️⭐️(5+小时)Battonya MÁV - Pecica CFRLine abandoned after World War 2.(Mako -) Apátfalva MÁV - Cenad CFR (- Sânnicolau Mare)Line closed. Passenger trains work within Romania as far as Cenad, operated by S.C. Regiotrans S.R.L.

关于东欧的旅行问答
  • deutsch20110303 回答了问题 · 7天前

    【37天】东欧穷游之旅路线求助!!!!!

    你只有37天,要去这么多国家,来不及的,而且还是很差的季节去,夏天去好多了,日照长,每天可以玩的时间多,此外,这种大行程是自己排的,不是别人帮你的,如果只有15天左右,我分分钟就可以排,37天我们没法帮你排,我自己常年欧洲旅行, 去了无数次,其中也走过一次90天的欧洲长线,90天的线路我的行程就排的很自由,经常路上会随机变,所以你要自己多看帖,多看锦囊,自由行最大的乐趣在于自己搜集各种信息,自己掌控所有的一切

  • 蝾螈溶液 回答了问题 · 2019-10-21 15:57

    一个人3个月环欧背包客旅行选什么旅行包?

    正在用Farpoint55L,应该算比较有发言权,详细说一下这个包。背景:背过这个包在欧洲进行过几次旅行,从6天到14天不等,转场很多,基本1到2天换一个城市,大概会带4套左右换洗衣物,冬季还会带至少两件棉袄/大衣,两双鞋,一般载重在大包10千克到15千克。小包3千克左右。优点:一、日包设计强无敌,Farpoint55L和70L自带一个日包,在城里逛的时候大包扔酒店,背小包玩即可,大小包拆装比较容易,但又没过分简单,一般背在身上偷不掉。对比之下如果你买Farpoint40L,那你要么再带一个小包,要么背着40L在公交上转。二、侧开设计,完美贴合城市旅行。在城市中旅行经常需要取出里面的东西,而如果用传统登山包,底层的物品只能最后拿,意味着比如过安检,就可能需要把所有东西拿出来,而Farpoint系列是侧开的,类似行李箱,就算只拿一个东西也不困难。三、背负系统,整个farpoint系列都带背负系统,而且内部一圈全部是框架,从我的感觉看10千克以上的背包如果没有背负系统是很累人的,而这个包我在负重12千克的情况下一两公里路都是自己走的。四、分仓简洁,Farpoint55L的主包是几乎不分仓的,我平时就是几个收纳包和大的衣服鞋子直接放里面,非常方便,而日包则有专门的电脑仓,也有些小袋子,非常实用。五、配套不错,我很喜欢配套的Airporter(提醒一下S号对于55L就足够),虽然贵,但能够很好地保护这款包,还有其他如防雨罩之类的,osprey做得还是很周到的。缺点:这款包说实话缺点也不少一、太大太重,耗费托运资金,55L的尺码是65×32×32,自重超过2kg。我们以Easyjet为例,最便宜的机票是“一件”56×45×25的行李,而这款包长就超标,而且不要忘记它带背负系统,大包靠近背部那一圈完全是框架,意味着长度无法通过少带东西来弯曲(说能弯曲的那几个找个Farpoint55L或者70L弯曲一下试试)。而厚度的话它带一个日包,除非你里面不装什么东西,否则绝对放不进去那个框。虽然并不是总是带不上飞机,但你愿意赌登机口工作人员严不严格吗?你也知道登机口再找你托运要多花多少钱吧。另外如果你不打算托运,你势必不会买专门的托运袋Airporter,如果到时候要求你托运,虽然背负系统可以收起来,但是外面的拉链如果托运坏了是不是很麻烦。另外对于行李限重的,几乎很难控制在8Kg以内,毕竟自重就有2kg以上,随便带电脑相机几双鞋就超过了。二、不适合户外行动,这款包本质上就是为城市旅行设计的,重心很高,不像登山包类似桶状,我以前也有一个格里高利的60L登山包,对比下这款包不适合长途的露营爬山。三、设计有缺陷,不知道有没有出新款,我用的那款日包两侧放水壶和雨伞的袋子太松,如果你的水杯不大很容易在背大包的时候滑出,而且两个绑带正好绕开了那两个袋子,我觉得是设计硬伤,不过在组合形态的时候也可以把雨伞和水杯索性放大包里。四、背负系统收放略复杂,这个纯个人感觉,如果我现在是晚上到一个酒店,第二天一早要走的话我都懒得收背负系统了……比较:和Farpoint40L比较:最大的优势就是大一圈,而且有日包,最大的劣势就是40是刚好满足几乎所有航司的登机行李要求的,而55在很多航司只要它较真你就带不上去,为此你可能需要多买一个airporter。和70L比较:我没看过70L,从数据上说70没比55大很多,二者设计几乎一样,我觉得反正要托运,如果要带的东西多就直接上70吧。和行李箱+小背包比较:这个包能空出双手,这就是最大的优势,在那些老城陡坡阶梯多的地方你就知道有多爽了。劣势也很清楚,行李箱你可以买个刚好能登机的,也能带不少东西,而且平地拖着省力。总结一下,如果你是需要经常转场,而且喜欢解放双手,旅行范围主要在欧洲城市,带的行李又比较多的话,Farpoint55L或者70L绝对值得一试。如果你以上有任何一点不符合,都可以考虑换40L或者买个行李箱和一个小包。反正我是不后悔的哈哈。最后上几张图

  • Carychang 回答了问题 · 2019-10-27 21:23

    求问我这个行程签证是不是应该签奥地利?

    如果2月9号晚上住萨尔茨堡,那就向奥地利申请。

  • archhale 回答了问题 · 2019-10-03 11:29

    阿尔巴尼亚及东欧国家可以带无人机入境吗?

    ​东欧相对管的不是太严,也要看具体区域的

  • gzsclf 回答了问题 · 2019-09-25 04:42

    东欧的秋景,哪个城市的好

    布拉格与布达佩斯都很不错,罗马尼亚与保加利亚的秋也同样很漂亮,看你的时间有多长,再安排呗

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