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  • 摇头摇头 发表了 游记  · 2017-02-15 20:32

    完结★时光尚早,美西不过是一幕前戏★带爸妈勇闯洛杉矶、LV、大峡谷、黄石、优胜美等,21天6880公里浪里个浪

    出发之前都信誓旦旦回来也写个详细有用的大帖,懒到现在其实依然懒得写言归正传,这两年经历挺多,挣扎很久终是辞了职,陆陆续续不是闲着就是玩,15年8月跟闺蜜去了台湾,十一跟波叔去了普吉岛,都是我最不喜欢的跟团游,11月底带着俩狗仔跟爸妈开车去了海南,跟爸妈坐游轮去了下龙湾,赶上游轮奢侈品打折,后悔没有买表,过年跟波叔报团去了三亚,然后带着朋友开车环岛游海南,4月带着狗仔和爹妈一路桂林、张家界、泰山啊玩回来,8月带着爸妈美西转了一圈,不过美国是从15年底开始计划的,正是因为辞了职,才能有这么个机会和时间带爸妈出国玩,然后,然后回来就彻底消停了回来一直对米国念念不忘太稀饭了,根本没呆够没玩够。其实最初计划是66号公路,也做了一些功课,但是后来想想,爸妈可能就去一次美国,带他们66号公路,实在不合适,然后就改成最大众的美西游了。一路下来还不错,爹妈爱上了自助游爱上了自驾游原本同行还有麻麻的好盆友带着闺女,我帮她们申请签证时候小盆友不好好准备材料,我说按照她的材料肯定会被拒签的,非不听我的,结果真的被拒签了,然后就我们一家三口去的。Tips:1、T-mobil的卡真的不要用啊,有信号的时候也总是用不了google map2、高素质的国家,一路都遇到的是好心人热心人,没有任何不愉快,除了丢东西3、4、先来几张照片吧,给自己个更新的动力,一定不能半途而废。下面的内容黑色是各种攻略找来copy整理的,除了黑色都是自己写的,方便大家做攻略。有不对的地方希望大家指正。像最初的我一样一无所知,哪都不知道是哪的没关系,就当我的帖子是个入门篇。(相机完全不会用,只会拿起来咔嚓咔嚓,超级无敌羡慕那些照相大咖们,照片有手机也有相机照的)稀饭我滴爱玩的盆友们阔以加我微信:jingkiyo$签证$http://bbs.qyer.com/thread-1377248-1.html 这个贴超级详细些如何填DS-160表格。提醒几点:1,当地住宿随便填了一家旅馆的地址,最好有酒店的电话,后面填表要用,否则再找很麻烦,面签前要记住。2,工作单位和工作职责描述最好提前翻译。3,教育信息从高中开始往上填。4、照片尺寸要50*50(51*51也可以),照相要露耳朵,电子版照片要小于240k。一、网上填写DS-160表格,网址:https://ceac.state.gov/genniv/1、点击右上角,选择“中文简体”2、点击右上角的“Select a location where you will be applying for this visa”,点击下方“start an application”,我在北京,选的北京。3、选完了这个框下面有阴影的数字字母,照着填上。再点击下面红框的“START AN APPLICATION”4、然后会出现下面的界面,一定要把框住的ID记住了!5、下面要从列表选择一个安全问题,要写出答案,这两个也都要记住了。6、http://bbs.qyer.com/thread-1377248-1.html 看这个贴吧。无敌详细。我就不做图了$面签经历$一、准备面签材料1、有效期6个月以上的护照 2、DS-160表格确认单、预约确认页(貌似以前160确认单+预约确认单+缴费收据是必须携带提交的,我们面签时只提交护照。)3、户口本、身份证、结婚证、房产证、行驶本; 4、工资卡6个月或以上流水明细,加盖银行公章(官网说不要存款证明,但是如果没有固定银行流水的或者工资低的建议开存款证明,或者信用卡6个月对账单) 5、在职单位的营业执照副本复印件,加盖单位公章,英文版在职证明,必须使用公司正规抬头纸打印,并加盖公章; 6、行程表(如果160表格填写了具体计划,这个就要准备)7、以往出国旅游的照片二、至少提前半小时到大使馆,按时间牌排队,不能带手机、石英表、门禁牌等,汽车钥匙没事,所有材料面签拿塑料袋或纸袋装好,其他东西可以存,门口有好多存东西的人,20块钱。三、面签暴雪+冻成狗的一早上啊还是顺利出签了。。还有个插曲啊,找完签证照我闲的没事染了头发,然后面签以前纠结到底咋办啊,不知道有事没事,看到网上有卖那种一次性喷头发的,我买了个黑的,以防万一啊,悲剧的是,那玩意喷完头发简直就跟碳塞得硬邦邦的,一抹还掉色,然后我晚上带着淋浴帽睡的,天晓得那是啥赶脚然后悲催的是第二天还雨夹雪,我那头发哪能着水凑合梳 个辫子都扎起来了,到大使馆哇排队的简直乱套了,没有人按时间排队,全挤在一起,各种伞流下来的水啊,衣服都湿的,我就一直使劲压着伞护着头发尴尬死了我跟爸妈一起申请一起面签。我爹14年底退休,事业单位,但白本,我娘11年退休,医院上班,去过韩国。我有希腊、泰国、韩国、澳门签,160表格都是我自己填的,我有在职证明和营业执照复印件,但是没有工资流水,开了有1.8W余额的银行流水,开了存款证明,炒鸡害怕要看这个的,只能听天由命了。今天天气原因吧,早上根本不是按时间排队然后放人,完全失控状,雨雪搞的纸也都皱皱巴巴的,我预约的早上10:45,不到10点去了就排队,反正乱七八糟就挤进去了。我分到的那个VO挺好,年轻滴帅哥,超级帅好像20号窗口还是19号,记不清了。VO帅哥面签前面那对夫妻时候他自己还笑,我就觉得有一半希望签过了。因为穷游也看了好几个面签分享的,我就一直叮嘱爸妈不要太严肃,要笑,然后问问题时候争取大家都说话,不要只说是或者不是,能解释就说明一下。问(爸妈):几个孩子爸妈:1个。问:哪里人,爸妈:河北,我说我户口现在北京。问:都退休了是么,爸妈:是;问:结婚了么,我说:结了;问:你老公去美国么?我说:不去;问:有小孩么,我说:没有;问:什么时候去美国,我说:明年7月;问:呆多久,我说:20天;问:做什么工作的,我说:IT公司行政。问:can you speak English,我说:yes。问:how do you do,然后他笑了,我还没说话,VO又问:how old are you? 我就英文回答。然后VO笑着说:你们都通过了。各种心花怒放啊,然后赶紧thank you ,have a nice day。也没有给我传说中的蓝单子啊,反正把护照收走了。我妈说一直就没担心会拒签。全程没有看任何准备的材料。反正所有问题都是ds160填的,记住了,如实回答就好(简历我也没准备,机票酒店也没有预定)嘿嘿1000顺利通过。我觉得我是沾了爸妈的光。然后就等着去中信银行取护照$EVUS进行登记$EVUS,全称是Electronic Visa Update System,即签证更新电子系统,用于确定持有十年B1, B2或B1/B2访客签证的旅客因临时商务或旅游前来美国旅行的资格。自2016年11月29日起,所有持中华人民共和国护照和10年期签证的旅客,必须在签证更新电子系统(EVUS)进行登记,才能赴美旅行。接下来, 一纸合法签证和护照可不能保你顺利赴美了!CBP官员建议最好在出发前72小时进行登记。目前还是免费的。需要注意的是:1、更新EVUS信息每次有限期为两年,有效期过期后,如有赴美需求,需再次注册更新,2、美签和EVUS是两码事,EVUS登记不是签证,两者都是必须具备的,先有了美签才能进行EVUS登记。我们出发的时候还没有这个东西。前段时间我试了一下,也登记了。1、打开登记网站https://www.evus.gov点击右上角语言,可以选择中文,然后点击“新登记申请”2、然后点击“个人登记”3、免责声明,点击:“是的,我已阅读并了解该信息,并同意这些条款”,再点击:“下一个”4、填写姓名,出生日期等信息出生国家,最上面就是China5、登记证号码要记住,以便日后查询登记结果。6、查询的时候要记得登记申请号码、护照号、B1/B2签证号码、出生日期7、申请人大概会在20分钟至72小时内得到确认,可以可以尝试登出帐号,再重新登陆,就能看到申请状态已经从“待处理”变成“已登记”。

  • luna_meow 发表了 游记  · 2019-09-13 11:13

    昼赏冰川 夜追极光:阿拉斯加游轮 北上+南下双料攻略(已更完)

    附一下两年前北上的行程单阿拉斯加旅行小视频戳下面链接(总长1:39,流量预警)油管B站00:00 哈伯德冰川00:25 冰川国家公园00:37 Ketchikan00:43 WhitePass火车00:51 三文鱼洄游00:57 舌尖上的阿拉斯加 - 帝王蟹腿01:08 极光01:23 两只麋鹿

  • Miumiu_C 发表了 游记  · 2019-09-24 23:07

    叮~这有一份你需要了解的莱茵河&摩泽尔河的漂流地图 | 葡萄美酒 | 小镇古堡(维京游轮12日意德卢法4国12城闺蜜游)

    撒花🎉🎉🎉本帖上【穷游首页】啦、【德国】板块置顶啦!~感谢QY,感谢各位辛勤的工作人员,感谢每一位围观的小伙伴的支持❤️💛💚💙💜💖序曲Rhine 浪漫莱茵河“流淌着,那是彩色的童话,眩漪的梦境。无数的灯火,让一波清流勃勃盎然,煜煜生辉。当你徒步走在岸上,真的是,一步一首诗,一步一幅画......”。源于瑞士阿尔卑斯山北麓,舒曼悠扬的《莱茵河交响曲》在这条犹如绿色丝绒带般的浪漫河域中流淌。200年前,德国浪漫主义时期的诗人和思想家们被莱茵河的魅力所倾倒,为她奉献了无数美丽的诗篇,因此有了"200年莱茵浪漫"。莱茵被誉为西欧的父亲河,孕育了凯尔特人、罗马人、勃艮第人和法兰克人。莱茵流经法国、德国、荷兰等国,最后注入北海。Mosel 迷醉摩泽尔“比尼罗河更大,比台伯河更高雅……我走过连绵不绝的葡萄园,落日余晖之下,摩泽尔河仿佛一条喝醉的蛇,缠绵、慵懒地蜿蜒着。“公元340年,著名拉丁诗人奥索尼厄斯(Decimus Ausonius)这样描述罗马人最爱的摩泽尔河。源于法国东北部孚日山脉西坡,西北流经卢森堡,在德国汇入莱茵河中游。两千多年前古罗马人和凯尔特人在河两岸的峭壁上种下第一批葡萄,从那时起,特殊的地理位置与砂岩土使得这里生长的葡萄果味浓郁、品质极高,它有一个名字,白葡萄酒之王:雷司令。几乎在河流每一个转弯处的山顶上,都矗立着一座中世纪古堡。难怪世人相传,摩泽尔就象一位身姿丰满的法国女子,带着些许醉意奔向莱茵河。而有关一对老友,这个夏末的故事就在这汪清波碧浪之间铺展。关于我关于队友Titi,互称宝宝。始于大学,坐在前排的同学,后结良缘,相伴并见证整个青葱岁月的大学时期乃至实习期。至今已然是x年老友(不自爆年龄😂)。———————————————————— 忆往日——————————————————————首篇精华游记【桜の關西】2014桜の季節拼的就是RP(关西9日-京-奈-吉野-阪)详细赏花攻略-全文完-备电梯 ★2014呆梨穷首精华游记【执意到底】A&M -16日行摄自驾托斯卡纳暴走北中意的蜜月 (全文完) ★★★2015德奥捷穷首精华游记【秋雾水影】16日自驾德奥捷行摄中欧-带你看遍奥地利湖区(全文完)★★★2016荷法穷首精华游记【行摄荷法】PartI 原来是只这样的阿萌斯特呆啊 博物馆星人慢走三日闺蜜游(完)★★【行摄荷法】PartII 南法六月初夏|陪你上山下海 风驰7日闺蜜自驾行(安纳西·普罗旺斯·凡尔登·蔚蓝海岸·里昂) ★★★2017冰岛穷首精华游记【To ÍSLAND-232H】·至冰岛——醒不来的六月初夏梦(10日环全岛闺蜜行摄自驾行) ★★★2018巴黎精华游记【PARIS·PARIS】优雅造夏·巴黎的四种刷法(塞纳河畔迷情、博物馆巡礼、巴黎荣光、米其林摘星)情怀饕餮剁手缺一不可 ★★2019英国穷首精华游记【魔法爱英伦】之生如夏花英格兰复古自驾游 | 科茨沃尔德小众游 | 复古 | 花园 | 魔幻 | 城堡 |(完) ★★★

  • lw568694 发表了 游记  · 2020-12-01 11:14

    东加勒比海巴哈马之旅

    这里发一篇去年秋天往美国坐邮轮的文章,之前是写在小学同学群的聊天记录,再整理后选在穷游网上与各位玩家分享。前日在美国的阿姐问我是否近期就要到加勒比海地区坐船,又勾起了我的记忆,就要第四次踏上美利坚的国土了,上次17年堪称完美,既有坐船到西加勒比海地区游览,又有去达拉斯市区观摩学习世界名建筑师的设计作品,可谓满载而归了。今次就是坐船游东加勒比海地区一个主题,当然,从我的角度看也挺不错的,首到的基韦斯特是美国最南端的岛屿,与古巴隔海相望,岛上有一号公路的起点标志,也有大作家海明威晚年的住宅作为博物馆供人观赏,据说里面还有成群的六趾猫,住宅的对面就是基韦斯特的灯塔,当年的海明威喝酒多了,就是凭着灯塔的位置回家的。岛上还有一个出名的地方,就是杜鲁门小白宫,过去的总统度假胜地,后来的艾森豪威尔总统和肯尼迪总统都也是住过哪里。之后会去巴哈马群岛的首都拿骚及大马哈岛的弗里波特港,拿骚的对面有大名鼎鼎的天堂岛上的阿特兰蒂斯酒店,拿骚港上有传说中的女王逃跑阶梯及各种博物馆。大马哈岛上有值得一看的格罗夫斯花园,里面有各种热带植物、花卉及各种野生动物,是美国野生动物保护协会认证的野生动物栖息地。数一数,再有七天就出发了。总之,还是充满期待的…香港维多利亚港夜景香港机场万豪酒店近期香港有点混乱,特别今天登机是周六,半年前定的海港城宾馆,前思后想,还是放弃了,尽管不能退款,为顺利起见,重新定了昨晚上机场附近的万豪酒店,这是我这辈子住过的最好酒店,没有之一。说来穷游也就这样,都是选择较经济的酒店、机票等等。讲一件见笑的事,我在海上漂泊过一百多天的航次,仅坐过阳台房一次及皇家大道景观房二次,这次的东加勒比海地区之旅,就定了一间海景房,已经就算升级了。如果你想余生之年,多走一些地方,我的体会就是予算要控制,有时委屈一下自己吧。这一段写于飞往美国的航班上。香港机场又到纽约。二十五年前,1994年第一次访美期间在这个城市住了一周,期间去了世贸双塔,自由女神,西点军校,大都会博物馆,古根海姆艺术馆,华尔街,帝国大厦,联合国大厦,周边还去了大西洋城,尼亚加拉瀑布以及费城、华盛顿。记得在双塔的顶端观光层,手捧一杯可乐,坐在窗前,观赏纽约的落日,那景色真是美不胜收。这一切,在9.11都不复存在了,每每想起都觉得无比可惜,人类的文明财富毀于一旦。今天匆匆经过,只是转机而已,我想以后还是会再来的。有件往事也是蛮有趣,2015年第二次美签,领馆的官员问我,你第一次去是公务还是商务,我那时脑子一片空白,哪里说得清,只要回答错误,估计也是没戏了,我只能如实回答:由市人事局组织去参观访问的,没想到那官员大手一挥就通过了。现在想起来,毕竟有点小风险,还是运气有时也会起作用的。纽约机场候机厅由香港机场起飞经纽约转机至休斯敦酒店历时26个钟头,看来这把老骨头都还能适应。前几天买保险的时候,咨询安联保险:投保人70-79岁只能赔偿50%,80-89岁只能赔偿25%,90岁以上不能投保,就是说你需要出行的话,没人保障你了,你需好自为之,自我保障。各位兄姐,希望大家能够长寿百岁,自我保障。美国休士顿酒店刚刚收到代理发来的信息,说行程有变,不去大马哈岛了在拿骚停一天半。上个月的飓风好像对大马哈岛的影响比较大,这次不适合去。听说加勒比最好的季节是11月至次年的5月。看起来,加勒比海风云要对我进行再教育了,出门记得看看天相日月星辰之类的。大洋风云今天十点左右坐车到邮轮码头,办理上船手续。内人对我指着柜台一块牌子说,请乘客献上爱心,为遭到飓风袭击的加勒比岛国民众捐款,我说那我们就捐十美元吧,但是具体操作方法该怎么办,心中无数?肚子饿得不行,上船后急奔自助餐厅吃饭,席间,手机振动了一下,我低头一看,哦,船公司默认我们已经捐了十元给灾区。看来,我朝小民国际上主流社会没有低看我们啊,一捐就是十美元起点价,我这退休老头也为国争光了。哈哈!嘉年华自由号邮轮大堂嘉年华自由号邮轮餐厅上船这两天的体验,觉得这次(首次)坐的嘉年华邮轮不如去年同学聚会坐的皇家加勒比邮轮,歺饮及娱乐表演都不及。但这家公司是业界的老大,总有它的过人之处吧,待慢慢观察。当年的泰坦尼克号的白星邮轮公司也被它家收购了,今天的横跨大西洋的玛丽皇后二号邮轮也在其中。说点往事,2015年第一次到美国乘船,坐的士往码头时还请司机专程绕到玛丽皇后号在长滩的永久停泊地朝拜,为此多花了二十美金。看来,人为自己的偶像花费点什么,也是乐此不疲心甘情愿的。各位兄姐是否这样呢?停泊在美国长滩的玛丽皇后邮轮经过昼夜的航行,邮轮靠上了基韦斯特的码头,美国前总统杜鲁门的度假地小白宫就坐落在码头边的一个别墅区,整座建筑为白色调,掩映在绿荫下,我参观了室内外的布局后,总体上来说就是朴素当中见华丽,轻巧而不失优雅。不能不说他之后的几位总统都选其为度假地,是有它的魅力所在。之后,又到了大作家海明威的晚年居所参观,这又是另一番景象,院子里随地行走的六趾猫,特别是躺在主人卧床上的猫咪,更是衬托出主人生活随意率性的形象,建筑物的外观造型有一圈连廊环绕,通透且实用,真是居家良所。我想,当个总统还是没有当个作家自由,要写作就提笔,累了,出去喝个酩叮大醉,也能凭借灯塔的方位,回家呼呼大睡。有意思的是:两者的职位及荣誉都是一场人气竞赛得来的,它们的成果获得不是凭籍时间或是一套客观标准来衡量的,这就是总统职位与诺贝尔奖的有趣之处。说多了,请各位看看图片吧。美国基韦斯特岛上的杜鲁门小白宫美国基韦斯特岛上的杜鲁门小白宫美国基韦斯特岛上的杜鲁门小白宫美国基韦斯特岛上海明威住宅前的六趾猫美国基韦斯特岛上的海明威住宅美国基韦斯特岛上的海明威住宅美国基韦斯特岛上海明威住宅对面的灯塔美国基韦斯特岛上的海明威住宅美国基韦斯特岛上的海明威住宅美国基韦斯特岛上的海明威住宅美国基韦斯特岛上的最南端标志(一号公路起点)东加勒比海之行已经接近尾声了,这次因为上个月飓风的原因,减少了一个大马哈岛的游览,在拿骚多停留半天,这样也好,行程较为轻松。拿骚倒是没留下多少印象,反而是天堂岛的阿特兰蒂斯酒店看得更多,水族馆的规模之大少见,还有酒店庭院的各种水上活动丰富多彩。我与旋平兄说门票每人44美金,他回应烧烧,的确如此,以我们国内的收入来衡量,是较高的。一年辛勤的工作,就换来一周愉快的邮轮之旅,值得吗?各位兄姐自有看法。该是打道回府的时候了,希望以后还能有这样的旅行啊。嘉年华自由号邮轮巴哈马群岛首府拿骚天堂岛上的灯塔巴哈马群岛首府拿骚的邮轮港巴哈马群岛首府拿骚山顶上的古炮台巴哈马群岛首府拿骚山顶上的女王逃跑阶梯巴哈马群岛首府拿骚天堂岛上的阿迪兰蒂斯酒店巴哈马群岛首府拿骚天堂岛上的阿迪兰蒂斯酒店巴哈马群岛首府拿骚天堂岛上的阿迪兰蒂斯酒店阿迪兰蒂斯酒店的水族馆阿迪兰蒂斯酒店的水族馆阿迪兰蒂斯酒店的水族馆阿迪兰蒂斯酒店的水族馆阿迪兰蒂斯酒店的水族馆阿迪兰蒂斯酒店的水族馆阿迪兰蒂斯酒店阿迪兰蒂斯酒店的水上滑梯阿迪兰蒂斯酒店室外水上游乐场阿迪兰蒂斯酒店室外水上游乐场阿迪兰蒂斯酒店室外水上游乐场阿迪兰蒂斯酒店室外水上游乐场这次邮轮之旅是七晚八天,有三个海上巡游日,周日下午出发隔周日上午返回,按照邮轮业的说法是一个标准航程。返程的两个巡游日在加勒比海的墨西哥湾上无所事事地看海发呆,也是人生难得的机会。船上碰到了两对中国沈阳夫妇,他们都是当年和儿子一起来美国的,儿子读大学,业余打工,老公老婆去打黑工,至今来美国休斯敦已有二十几年,只持有绿卡,因为不懂英语,而考不过入籍的试卷,现在就在华人的工厂打工,每天工作时间十二小时,这次出来,要提前半年请假,退休要等66周岁。用阿今的话作结吧:在美国饿不死也不会发大财。嘉年华自由号邮轮嘉年华自由号邮轮海景房嘉年华自由号邮轮后记:坐邮轮回来后,同事问我在船上捐款是否用手机操作?我这里作个䃼充说明一下:这件事过程还是很有趣,上船两天后到服务台办事,顺便问了一个讲华语的船员,贵船是否有默认捐款的数额,她对我解释了上船后才半个小时就通过手机扣款的原因,十美元是两人船卡的成本费,捐款请移步到五楼卖糖果的商店办理,我坐过的邮轮公司都没有收船卡费一说,第一次碰见,难怪该船公司能做到行业老大,这是节约成本的一步。好了,继续前面的话题,到五楼商店里,船员与我打招呼:哈啰……我英语只懂谢谢,多少钱等几个单词,要表达自己的意愿是没办法用语言来描述的,只好拿起柜台的纸和笔画了一个草图,(见下面),她马上就明白我的意思了,连声道谢后,打印出一张小票让我签名,完成这个捐款事项。之前,我在机场候机楼找大巴时也用了一张小图问机场职员,他们也明白我的所需,指引至船公司的接待点。我想说的是,我们如果到国外,语言不通时,用图或肢体动作也可以向对方表达自己的想法,一般来说都可以解决问题的。当然,当我痴呆的某一天,可能就画错图及表错情了,比喻来个单腿下跪之类的动作。

  • Beyounged 发表了 游记  · 2020-07-27 08:31

    最后净土:南极•南奥克尼群岛&南极半岛【中英双语附功略】Antarctic Peninsula[CHN/ENG]

    “我们旅行不是为了从人生的指间悄悄溜走,而是为了让人生不从我们的指间悄悄溜走。” ---佚名“We travel not to escape life, but for life to not escape us.” --- Anonymous【注】为给您带来最好的阅读体验,中英内容略有不同。当然,对英文不感冒的小伙伴们不用担心。[NOTE] For your best reading experience, Chinese and English contents may differ.在这篇游记中,你会看到:- 把照相机显示弄坏的火红彩霞;- 世界上第一个南极研究站;- 从水里跃出的欢快企鹅;- 烧烤鲸鱼排;- 被鸟类占据的沉没挪威捕鲸船;- 碧蓝的天加上丝滑的雪;- 南极大陆的本色。In this journal, you will encounter:- Sunset so vibrant that it breaks camera displays- The first Antarctic research station ever built- Jolly penguins hopping out of the water- Barbequed whale steak- Norwegian whaler ship taken over by birds- Azure sky and silky smooth snow- True nature of Antarctica人间仙境/Heaven On Earth这个世界上令人神往的地方比比皆是。尽管我尽了全力想要玩遍全球,但是每次出行,我都会发现有更多不为人知的美妙之地。所以些许年的流浪之后,我总是觉得还有很多地方没有来得及去,心愿单不但没有减少,反而越来越长。可是有一片去过的大陆却让我无法忘怀:南极。有些地方,可以美到让你想立刻去重新体会,而南极,就是这种人间仙境。This world is full of places that pique one's inner wanderlust. However, even though I have tried my hardest to tour the world, every time I venture outside, I would discover more hidden places that go onto my bucket list, which has been growing instead of decreasing. However, there is a piece of land that I have visited yet still cannot get out of my mind: Antarctica. There are some places that is so breathtaking that it compels you to visit again, and Antarctica, is this kind of heaven on Earth.请你做好心理准备,这篇游记包括的是无尽的蓝、白、和透明。单纯的雪地不需要任何渲染,纯洁的南极不需要任何杂色。这是最后一片没有被人类侵蚀的净土,这是大自然,我们的母亲,在世界上最后可以自由发挥的画卷。Please mentally prepare yourself. This journal contains endless blue, white, and colorless beauty. A sheet of snow needs not any decoration, and the pure Antarctica needs not other colors. This is the last virgin land that has escaped the corruption of human kind, and this is the last canvas on which mother nature can freely express her creativity.闭上你的眼睛,想象这一片无尽的白,两耳完全没有城市嘈杂的喧嚣,身边没有任何人工的建造。只有你,蓝天,通透的冰山,和水中自在游弋的企鹅。一切,都突然不重要了;存在,反而就是人生意义的所在。Close your eyes, and imagine this endless white. The ears are devoid of the raucous city commotion; there is no human creation to be found anywhere. Only you, the blue sky, semi-translucent iceberg, and penguins frolicking in the water. Suddenly, everything does not matter anymore. Instead, existing, has become the meaning of life itself.很好,你的灵魂已经准备好接受南极的纯洁之美了,所以请跟随着我的脚步,来体验这个白色的天堂。让我们一起前往地图上都没有标识的无名之地,感受其他人无法理解的仙境吧。Good, your soul is ready to feel the beauty of purity Antarctica has to offer. So, please follow my footsteps, and experience this white heaven. Let's venture towards places unmarked on maps, and experience this world of spirituality others won't be able to comprehend.欢迎来到南极。Welcome to Antarctica.行程/Itinerary我的南极洲之行是一次将近一个月的长途航行,分为上下两部分。This Antarctica part is a long voyage about one month long, and is divided into 2 parts.上部分是福克兰群岛和南乔治亚岛(https://bbs.qyer.com/thread-3427825-1.html)本文是南极诸岛和南极大陆First part is Falkland Islands and South Georgia(https://bbs.qyer.com/thread-3427825-1.html)This part is Antarctic Islands and Antarctica mainland proper下图:南极航行路线图/Below: the path I took for the Antarctic voyage上图:南奥克尼群岛在世界上的位置/Above: South Orkney Islands' location in this world本次航行前四天拜访福克兰群岛(请见上部分),第五至第十天在南乔治亚的百万企鹅之中度过(请见上部分),第十一天航行至南奥克尼群岛,之后前往南极半岛,在南极半岛的具体行程如下。The voyage's first four days are spent in Falkland Islands, and the fifth to tenth day among the million penguins in South Georgia. Eleventh day is South Orkney Islands, and then proceeded to Antarctic Peninsula, with the exact itinerary as the following.下图:南极半岛行程/Below: Antarctic Peninsula Itinerary【注】由于大部分地区没有中文名,所有地名为个人翻译。(第一到第十天见上篇游记)第十一天:公海航行第十二天:到达南奥克尼群岛,拜访南极第一个科考站,Orcadas科考站第十三天:抵达南极大陆最北端,大象岛第十四天:抵达南设得兰群岛,拜访了Robert Island罗伯特岛第十五天:进入Gerlache Strait杰拉许海峡,于Hydrurga Rocks海豹岩和Foyn Harbour福音湾登陆第十六天:深入南下,到达Orne Harbour奥恩港,和Cuverville Island库夫维尔岛第十七天:由西海岸北上,在Deception Island欺骗岛和Halfmoon Island半月岛登陆第十八天:和南极挥别,德雷克海峡航行第十九天:德雷克海峡航行,抵达南美洲最南端,进入比格尔海峡,庆典仪式第二十天:于乌斯怀亚市下船,结束南极航行(First ten days please refer to last journal)Day 11: Open seaDay 12: Arrive at South Orkney Islands, and visit the first research station in Antarctica, OrcadasDay 13: Arrival at the northernmost point of Antarctic mainland, Elephant IslandDay 14: In South Shetland Island, visited Robert Point and Robert IslandDay 15: Penetrate Gerlache Strait, landings at Hydrurga Rocks and Foyn HarbourDay 16: Continue south, and got to Orne Harbour and Cuverville IslandDay 17: Back up north via west coast, landed on Deception Island and Halfmoon IslandDay 18: Wave farewell to Antarctica, sailing in Drake PassageDay 19: Sailing in Drake Passage, arrived at the southern tip of South America and entered Beagle Channel, congratulation ceremonyDay 20: disembark in Ushuaia city, the end of the Antarctic voyage我强烈建议先去看看上部分,之后再来读本篇,关联性会更加强一点。那不多说了,现在正文开始!I strongly recommend you to read the previous journal first, and then come read this final chapter for a stronger sense of continuity.Without further ado, let's begin the main portion of the journal!公海航行/Open Sea第十一天,11月3日Day 11, November 3rd八节西风,多云、雪、冰雹,负一摄氏度8 knots east wind, -1°C, cloudy/snowy/hail从南乔治亚离开后,一行人都焦躁不安地等待着下一个奇迹的发生。看过百万企鹅的壮观澎湃之后,大家都一致认为南极不太可能再有什么令人震撼的景观了。可是在我们无所事事打发在船上摇来晃去的这几天时,我们其实正在悄悄地接近这世界真正无与伦比的美丽......Upon depature from South Georgia, the gang was anxious for the next miracle. After witnessing the million-penguin spectacle, we agreed that Antarctica probably did not have too many tricks up its sleeves any more. Yet as we wasted our time on the open sea, trying to spend the days rocking back and forth on the sea doing anything, we were silently approaching this world's true beauty...下图:德国妹子Ulrike打毛衣消磨时间/Below: German girl Ulrike knitting to past time南奥克尼群岛/South Orkneys Islands第十二天,11月4日Day 12, November 4th24节西南风,负五摄氏度,加上风寒负十九摄氏度,冰片、冰雹24 knots southwest wind, -5°C, -19°C w/wind chill, ice pallets/hail60°44.7'S, 44°42.9'W将近两天的漂泊之后,我们终于看到了陆地。这是Laurie Island劳利岛,南奥克尼群岛第二大的岛屿。巨大的冰川完全覆盖了整个视野,只留出一小块陆地,这上面坐落的就是本日的登陆点:Orcadas欧尔卡达斯科学考察站。After nearly two days of wandering, we finally reached land. This is Laurie Island, the second largest of the South Orkney Island group. A gigantic glacier covered the entire view, with barely a piece of land left visible. This is the location of our landing site today: Orcadas research station.上图:远眺Orcadas科考站/Above: Orcadas Research Station from afar我们靠近时,全站的队员们都来到了岸边迎接我们,毕竟这是很少有船来拜访的科考站之一,而且乌斯怀亚号是过去半年中第一艘来Orcadas的造访船只。16位寂寞难耐的男性研究员们早已经迫不及待,早在我们抵达之前2天就发了电报来:“你们有人有带香烟吗?”As we approached, the entire crew came to welcome us. This is one of the research stations rarely visited by ships, and Ushuaia was the first ship to have visited in 6 months. 16 lonely male researchers were so eager that they sent radio 2 days before our arrival, asking:“Does anyone have cigarettes?”上图:满海湾的南极海燕/Above: a bay full of Antarctic petrels这里纬度高于60度南,所以受到南极条约的保护,也在政治上属于南极。别看Orcadas没什么特别华丽的装饰或是现代的设备,这个基地可是所有南极探索的老祖宗。沙滩上的一个石头墙是欧蒙德房,在南极的第一个建筑物,由苏格兰探险队于1903年过冬时建造。后来,苏格兰人们把这个基地交给了阿根廷管理,所以现在这是阿根廷在南极的科考站,也是世界上第一个南极科考站。The latitude here exceeds 60 degrees south, so it is under the protection of Antarctic treaty, and politally belongs to Antarctica. Do not think Orcadas is nothing because it does not have fancy decorations or modern technologies; this is the grandfather of all Antarctic expeditions. A rocky wall on the beach is the Omond House, the first structure built in Antarctica, constructed by the Scottish expeidition in 1903. Later, it was given to the Argentines for management, so Orcadas is an Argentinean research station today, as well as the very first research station in Antarctica.下图:欧蒙德房/Below: Omond House上图:在南极的第一科考站!/Above: at the first research station in Antarctica~!参观完一个小小的博物馆后,我来到了岛上的墓地。小小的白色十字架们一字排开,埋葬的大部分都是当年被困冻死的挪威捕鲸人。如今,这历史悠久的墓地还在阐述着这里的百年沧桑。After checking out a tiny museum, I arrived at the local cemetery. White small crosses formed a row, most of them belonging to Norwegian whalers stuck here and froze to death. Even till today, this monumental graveyard is still telling us the tortured history of the past century.上图:六层保护的水管/Above: water pipe with six layers of protection大家都被热情好客的阿根廷科队员们邀请进入他们的科考站内一探究竟。除了里面暖和得让我直出汗,其实整个内部环境还是非常舒适的。这里不但有别无二致的寝室和实验室,还有医务室,酒吧,休息室等等。令我惊讶的是,这里不但有电视直播,居然还有无线网络!!!The team was warmly welcomed into the station by the hospitable Argentines. Other than the extreme warmth inside, I was surprised by the comfort offered here. Not only do you have the expected dormitory and labs, there are also a medical bay, a bar, a lounge, etc. What shocked me was that there was not only live TV, but also wifi!!!下图:医务室/Below: Medical bay上图:酒吧/Above: bar下图:历年科考队员合影/Below: photos of past research teams队员们请了我们一顿下午茶,还摆出来了很多小纪念品以供购买。在这里光是要寄明信片就要20多美金一张,我还是忍痛发了好几张。这主要是因为每年只有一艘补给船可以把明信片运出去,然后靠着阿根廷军队邮局审核之后发出,所以不但非常贵,而且特别慢:我7个月之后才收到这些明信片!The team members treated us to an afternoon tea, and laid out a variety of souvenirs for us to purchase. Here, just sending a postcard costs 20 US dollars, and yet I still bled for a few. This is because every year, only 1 supply ship carries out the cards, and then the Argentine military post system has to verify and then send them out, so it is not only expensive, but also slow: I got mine after a solid 7 months!下图:全是冰山的海湾/Below: Bay full of icebergs整个海湾搁浅了大大小小十几座冰山,每个都被海水冲刷侵蚀多年,形态不一。正当我摆弄冰块玩的不亦乐乎之际,一只企鹅摇摇摆摆从身边擦过。这可是非常难见到的阿德勒企鹅。白色的眼圈,粉红的脚蹼,可以算是企鹅里面最高雅的存在了。这也是这次航行所见到的第五种企鹅!A dozen icebergs of various sizes are beached here in the bay, each eroded by the sea water, left in a bunch of strange shapes. While I was playing with the ice cubes, a penguin brushed by waddling. This is a rare Adele penguin, with its unmistably elegant white eye ring and pink feet. This is also the fifth kind of penguin we witnessed in this trip!下图:阿德勒企鹅/Below: Adele penguin在傻萌的企鹅渐渐远去之时,也是返回船上的最后机会了。搭乘着最后一艘摆渡,我和科考队员们挥手分别。和我们不一样,他们可一点都不伤心:船上的厨师送给了他们两颗卷心菜,五个月没看到新鲜蔬菜的他们眼睛都亮了呢!As the chonky penguin got afar, it was time to return to ship. On the last zodiac back, I waved goodbye to the research station personnels. Unlike us, they were not sad at all: our chefs gifted them two cabbages, and their eyes were practically glowing after 5 months without seeing fresh veggies!下图:说再见/Below: Saying goodbye南设得兰群岛/South Shetland Islands一路南下,不一会儿,四周全部都是庞大的块状冰山,几十层楼高,几公里长,把四周的视线全部占据。这一天一夜的航行全部都是在这些巨人的身边来回穿梭,有些大到一眼看不到边。它们绝大部分都是南极大陆冰川断裂留下来的,所以最大的有几百公里长,在太空都看得到呢!Continuing south, within hours, we were surrounded by enormous tabular icebergs. A dozen floors tall, kilometers wide, they took over the horizon. This day and night of voyage was spent weaving between these giants, some of them so big that you cannot see the other end. They are mostly remnants of Antarctic mainland's glacial remnants, so some of them are hundreds of kilometers wide, even visible in space!下图:远处若隐若现的冰山/Below: icebergs looming in the distance在船上,大部分老年人吃不消海上的摇晃,吃了晕船药在床上躺着,然而我们一群年轻人都不是一般的无聊。我已经教会了所有人各种中国经典牌局,从八十分到斗地主,一群外国小哥们凑在一起打的不亦乐乎。而打输不想陪我们玩的查理则安心地躺在太阳下,第五次翻阅着她最爱的那本小说书。Onboard, most older folks could not bear the rocking, so they took their sea sickness pills and lied down on bed, yet our group of younger folks were bored out of our minds. I had already taught the entire group a whole list of Chinese poker games, and these new students congregated together playing it without any realization of time. While Charlie, who did not want to play with the boys, decided to busk under the sunlight while reading her favorite novel for the fifth time.大象岛/Elephant Island第十三天,11月5日Day 13, November 5th30节西北风,负二摄氏度,晴、阴30 knots northwest wind, -2°C, sunny/overcast61°06'S, 54°52'W午后,我们终于抵达了南极大陆最靠北的陆地:象岛。这个荒岛看似平凡,实则上是历史中南极最重要的地方之一。读过我上一篇南乔治亚游记的童鞋们肯定记得,这就是夏克尔顿被困的孤岛,也是从这里他启航出发,划船完成了前无古人后无来者的最后一搏。Afternoon, we finally arrived at the northernmost land in Antarctica: Elephant Island. This barren island seems plain, but actually is one of the most important historic landmarks. If you have taken a look of my South Georgia journal, you will know that this is the place where Shackleton was stuck on, and also where he rowed his boat towards an unprecedented miracle.气候恶劣,狂风大作,乌斯怀亚号无法靠近象岛进行登陆,所以一行人只好作罢,远眺当年南极英雄滞留的Point Wild狂野角。Harsh weather and vehement gales prohibited Ushuaia from approaching Elephant Island, so we had to give up, and resort to viewing Point Wild, where the Antarctic heroes were born, from afar.罗伯特岛/Robert Island第十四天,11月6日Day 14, November 6th30节西南风,负二摄氏度,晴、雪30 knots southwest wind, -2°C, sunny/snowy62°28'S, 59°23'W一早醒来,窗外莫名其妙的黑暗。我好奇地往外面一探,瞬间倒吸了两口冷气:一座硕大的冰山就在旁边,将大部分的阳光都遮挡在了后面。这个无名遮阳伞一边高耸,另一头扁平,就这样陪伴着我们吃了早餐。Upon waking up, the outside seemed unusually dark. I curiously stuck my head out, and was taken aback: a gigantic iceberg was right beside us, blocking out most of the sunlight. This nameless sunblock has one side tall and one side flat, and accompanied us during the breakfast.这种冰山已经被侵蚀多年,所以水下可能有大量不规则形状,非常危险,不能够轻易靠近。我们围着它绕了一圈后,便继续前进,来到了南设得兰的罗伯特岛。This kind of iceberg has been eroded for years, so there may be many irregularities under the water. The danger prohibits approaches, so we circled around it and proceeded to Robert Island of South Shetlands.上图:罗伯特岛冰川/Above: glacier at Robert Island南极的天气说变就变,刚刚还是大晴天,结果没多少时间,一阵大雪从冰川飘来,给所有在甲板上等待摆渡的人们盖上了一层白棉袄。Antarctic weather was so unpredictable. It was just sunny, yet within minutes a large squall moved over from the glaciers, and dumped a white layer of snow onto everyone on the deck waiting to board the zodiac.下图:这就是为什么在南极要多层穿戴/Below: This is why you need to dress in layers here上图:罗伯特岛/Above: Robert Island除了一个小小的石子滩,全岛一片雪白,偶尔有几个冰原岛峰从中凸出来(如上图),这些是由纯冰千百万年中切割出来的山巅。在英语里面,冰原岛峰这个词nunatak是从爱斯基摩语舶来的。With the exception of a tiny pebble beach, the island is completely white, with an occasional nunatak jutting out from the ice field. These are mountain peaks that was cut through millions of years by glaciers. And the word “nunatak” is a borrowed word from Eskimo language.上图:两只南极贼鸥互相敬礼/Above: tow Antarctic skuas greeting each other在海滩上,数千只企鹅忙的停不下来。大量的金图企鹅来回穿梭,而空中则完全被好几只贼鸥占据。但是最令人兴奋的是本次南极航行遇到的第六种企鹅:颊带企鹅。这种企鹅非常好辨认:脸颊有一条黑带的,就是这种非常好斗的南极企鹅。On the beach, thousands of penguins were too busy to take note of us. Many gentoo penguins dashed around, while the air was taken over by a few Antarctic skuas. Yet the most exciting is the sixth kind of penguin encountered during this voyage: chinstrap penguin. They are really easy to tell, if it has a black strap around its chin, it is this feisty kind of fella.一座小山丘向阳的一面雪已经化尽,裸露出光秃秃的岩石。在这里,大量的颊带企鹅聚集在一起筑巢产卵。尽管它们的蛋可以在冰上正常孵化,但是绝大部分还是强烈偏好在不是冰的平面上繁育后代。The sunny side of a little hill had lost its icy cover, revealing barren rocks. Here, large number of chinstrap penguins congregated to mate in their nests. Even though their eggs can hatch normally on ice, most of them still strongly prefer to raise their young on surfaces that are not ice.下图:寻找筑巢的岩石/Below: looking for rocks to build它们还特别喜欢登高,巢是要造的越高越好。所以你看上图,为了争夺在这块石头上休息的权利,好几只企鹅还争吵了一番呢。They also really like heights, with their nests the higher the better. As you can see above, in order to gain the rights to rest on this rock, a few of penguins quarreled quite a while!下图:抬头挺胸走起来/Below: chin high, head high, let's go!这片混乱之中,还有不少其他的动物夹杂在企鹅的喧嚣之内。最多的便是来去自如的南极海燕,以及它们最突出的剪刀尾。In this commotion, there are a few other animals mixed in the penguin chaos. The most recognizable is the Antarctic tern, and its prominent scissor-tail.下图:南极海燕/Below: Antarctic tern上图:排成队喝奶/Above: line up to drink milk然而最夺人眼球的还是刚出生的小海豹。肥嘟嘟圆滚滚的小海豹不但不怕生,而且特别好奇,一边哇哇叫,一边一摇一摆磨蹭地靠近我,两只浑圆的大眼睛把我浑身上下萌的是当场融化 (*/ω\*)Yet the most eye-catching was newborn seal pups. These chubby bois not only are not scared of humans, but also are very curious. While gently rwaring, they slowly snuggled upon me. The two large watery eyes instantly triggered my “dawwww” mode, shattering my masculinity.下图:萌死我了啦!!!/Below: AWWWWWWWW上图:顶不住了!!!/Above: I can't stand it any more!!!实在受不了了啦!!太萌了!!这可是犯罪啊!我不行了,我先撤退了,你们吃好喝好哈。。。I can't bear it! It is too adorable!!! This is criminal!!! I can't do this, gonna get outta here, you guys have fun...下图:还吐舌头,我跪还不行么/Below: and even does the “bleh”, I gotta give him this one在附近的冰原上,你还看得到我在南乔治亚篇中解释过的重力风。在上图中,你可以勉强看得到被这寒风带下来的冰雪。普通人没有防护,几分钟之内就会在这个风中失去知觉。On a nearby ice field, you can still see the katabatic wind that I explained in South Georgia journal. You can barely see the snow it is carrying down in the above photo. Without protection, an average human will freeze to unconsciousness in a few minutes in this wind.和企鹅们道别后,一行人回到乌斯怀亚号上,准备继续向南进发。After bidding farewell to the penguins, the gang returned to Ushuaia, and continued south.海豹岩/Hydrurga Rocks第十五天,11月7日Day 15, November 7th24节西南风,负二摄氏度,晴、多云24 knots southwest wind, -2°C, sunny/cloudy64°08'S, 61°37'W夜间,乌斯怀亚号向南又行进了一百多公里,进入了杰拉许海峡。一大早,所有人便整装待发,来到了海豹岩登陆。Overnight, Ushuaia moved another hundred kilometers south, entering Geralche Strait. In the morning, everyone got ready and prepared to land at Hydrurga Rocks.下图:翻转过来的冰山/Below: an iceberg that has turned over一片白茫茫的雪地上歇息着大量的企鹅。不少没找到老婆的单身汉们也在一边打闹,丝毫不理会背后那蓝得发光的冰山。这一幅美景,去世界其他任何地方,都是找不到的。The plain white snow supported numerous penguins. Some bachlors who failed to have a mate also were playing at the side, completely ignoring the translucently blue iceberg. This kind of beauty is unheard of anywhere else on the world.由于这里只有冰雪覆盖的陆地,繁殖的企鹅明显少了很多。但是在这片冰山四伏的海域之中有大量的磷虾,所以食物来源是绝对有保证的。好几只爸爸企鹅小心翼翼地保护着蛋,不让我们靠近一看究竟。Because there is only land covered with ice, there were much fewer breeding penguins. Yet in this sea full of krill, the food source is readily abundant. A few papa penguins carefully protected their eggs, prohibiting us from approaching for scrutiny.不过越往南,除了企鹅以外的鸟类就越少了,在这里,唯一能够看到的就是蓝眼鸬鹚了。它们在企鹅攀爬不到的峭壁上筑巢繁衍,也给乌云密布的天空之中添加了一道它们眼睛之中的蓝色。However, the further south you go, the fewer birds remain other than penguins. Here, the only kind you can see are the blue-eyed cormorants. They reside and breed on steep cliffs where penguins cannot reach, adding a hue of blue from their eyes into the gloomy palette of the sky.杰拉许海峡/Geralche Strait我们回到船上,开始向南的最后一程。今日的目标便是尽可能的向南行进,看看到底可以开到哪里!春天才刚刚结束,大量的浮冰阻塞了水道,我们不得不缓慢地绕行,所以我们能够走多远还是要听天由命。We returned to te boat, and began the last push towards south. Today's goal is to go as far south as possible, and see where we can end up! Spring just ended, and many floating ice blocked the passage, so we had to circle around them. As a result, how far we can go is subject to god's plan.正当舰桥上的领航员们满头大汗地精确航行之际,我却激动地围上了船尾的一个室外烤炉:厨房的伙计们今天给大家做阿根廷有名的烧烤!激动激动!我悄悄地从烤炉里面偷了两根香肠,一块牛排,还有一块鲸鱼排,圂囵吞了下去。对的,他们还有鲸鱼排,但是其实吃起来就是带着鱼腥味的老牛排,没什么特别的。对了,我赶快再去拿两根香肠再说。While the navigators were sweating profusely in the brdige, I was pestering a barbeque at the tail of the ship: the chefs decided we were gonna eat the famous Argentinean parrilladas today! I sneaked two sausages, a steak, and a whale steak from the parrilla, and inhaled them all. Yep, they do have whale, but it just tastes like a beef steak with strong fishy smell, so nothing to see here. Oh wait, gotta go borrow two more sausages, later.上图:请勿喂食船员福音湾/Foyn Harbour下午,乌斯怀亚号在福音湾下锚,准备下午的活动。由于潮涌比较厉害,向导们决定还是在海湾内坐皮艇绕一圈,而不是冒险登陆。Afternoon, Ushuaia dropped anchor at Foyn Harbour, preparing for the afternoon activity. Due to strong surges, the guides decided to take us for a zodiac cruise instead of risking for a landing.安详的海湾格外的宁静,而我们呼吸也不敢大声,生怕打扰到了这些邃蓝冰川的万年长眠。远离人类的喧嚣,城市的喧扰,社会的牵挂,这里才是地球最原始的形态。The tranquil bay was especially quiet, so much so that we did not dare to breath loudly, in case we wake up the azure blue icebergs from their millenia-long slumber. Far from human disturbance, urban influence, and social ties, this is what Earth looks like in its most original state.南极最鬼斧神工的莫过于水和冰的互动了。上图,涨潮时的冰被海水融化,所以在退潮时,整个冰原变成了一个屋檐,似乎随时都会崩塌。The most incredible Antarctic creation must come from the interaction between ice and water. In the above photo, snow is melted by the sea water when it is high tide, and they turn into a precariously hung edge when it is low tide, probably going to collapse any minute.海湾之中还有一艘沉船,叫做Governøren,挪威语中的“执政者”之意。1915年,这艘捕鲸船在福音湾附近着火,船上的高浓度鲸鱼油立刻使得火苗完全吞没了全船。船长不得不下令弃船,把它特意搁浅到这里,所幸无人伤亡。There is a sunken ship here in the bay, named Governøren, which means “the governor” in Norwegian. 1915, this whaler caught fire, and the whale oil on board quickly made the blaze engulf the boat. Captain ordered abandon ship, so he intentionally beached this vessel. Luckily, no one was hurt during this incident.如今,这堆破铜烂铁成为了南极海燕最理想的筑巢地。数百只盘旋在我们的上空,灵活地穿梭在各层甲板的圆形窗洞之间。我很欣慰,至少人类的灾难给本地生灵做了一个小贡献。Now, this pile of rusted metal is the perfect breeding ground for Antarctic tern. Hundreds of them circled above, agilely squeezing between the circular windows of every deck. I am relieved, as at least this human disaster contributed to the local life.下图:远处的高山/Below: a mountain far away上图:激动不已的查理/Above: Charlie excited beyond belief回到船上后,我本以为这美好的一天已经结束。可是吃好晚餐,我站到甲板上想要思考思考人生时,却被眼前的景象惊呆了。Back on board, I thought this wonderful day had already ended. Yet, as I finished dinner and stood onto the deck looking for some reminiscence, I gasped as I saw what was in front of me.红色的夕阳把天上的云都点燃了,如一团团爆炸的棉花糖一般。连远处的高山居然也被点着了,在云上留下了一道道阴影。这是我见证过最震撼的日落,没有之一。夜渐渐深了,但是这个彩霞居然还越变越红......The clouds were lit up by the setting sun, like exploding marshmellows. Even the furthest mountain peaks were on fire, leaving a dark mark on the clouds. This is THE most breathtaking sunset I have ever witnessed. The night was nigh, yet this scene was just getting started...越来,越红......Redder, and redder...这就是南极,这就是人间天堂,这就是一位旅行者最珍贵的宝藏。This is Antarctica; this is heaven on earth; this is the most precious treasure for a traveler.南极半岛/Antarctic Peninsula第十六天,11月8日Day 16, November 8th无风,二摄氏度,晴windless, 2°C, sunny64°40'S, 62°40'W奥恩港/Orne Harbour2016年11月8日,这是我永生难忘的一天。这一天早上我在船头看到的一切,是我这辈子见过最纯净,最原始,最心潮澎湃的画面。这是南极的永恒,也是渺小人类的永恒。November 8th, 2016 will forever be a day that I cannot forget. This morning, what I saw at the front of the ship, is the most pristine, most natural, and most exhilerating thing in my entire life. This is the eternity of Antarctica, and the eternity of humanity.如果这个宇宙之中有一个天堂,那这就是最靠近天堂的地方;如果这个人生有一种巅峰存在,那这就是登顶的最后一步;如果灵魂有被升华的可能,那这就是传说中的净化机会。我在这个渺小的星球上走过了百万公里,却没有他处能带来这种安详、宁静、自在的感觉:来到南极之后,你将无欲无求。If there is a heaven in this world, then this is the place closest to it; if there is a peak existence in life, then this is the last step of the summit; if the spirit can ascend, then this is the legendary opportunity. I have marched a million kilometers on this earth, yet no other place can bring me this sense of calm, peace and self-fulfillment. Once you have been to Antarctica, you shall be purged of desires.天边是无边的白,而眼下的却是透明的蓝。数千只企鹅在水中一跃而起,划出一道道弧线,和平静的水面碰撞出无数涟漪,交错着,结合着,共鸣着,打破了这镜面一般的南极海。Endless white at the horizons, and transparent blue underneath the feet. Thousands of penguins leap from the waters, drawing one glistening arch after another, crashing against the tranquil surface, creating countless ripples. They merge, they cross, they collide, they synchronize, all breaking the mirror-like surface of the Antarctica sea.不甘示弱的海豹们也加入了这幅画卷,和我们的船玩了起来。为了保护它们,船长下令关闭发动机,停止螺旋桨的转动,而它们也在清澈见底的水中表演起了南极芭蕾,整齐划一,如美人鱼一般拨动心弦。Seals could not miss out on the party, and began playing with our ship. In order to protect them, captain turned off the engine so the turbines would stop, and they repayed us with a well-choreographed underwater ballet in the clear sea, as enchanting as the legendary mermaids.所有人早餐都不顾了,直接跳上摆渡船准备登陆,而向导组成的先锋队早就在山坡上开出了一条道路。原本负责帮忙的几位讲师都不顾职位,自己跑到山坡上玩雪了。我也一点都不怪他们:我要是做向导,在这种地方我也要玩啊!Everyone abandoned breakfast plans and immediately hopped onto the zodiac for landing. Yet the guides already formed a scouting force and opened a route up a hill nearby. The handful of lecturers who were supposed to help out did not do their duties, instead were all frolicking in the snowy hills. I do not blame them at all though: because if I am a guide, I would play all day too!上图:回程时拍摄的爬山路线/Above: the route towards the peak, shot on the way back二话不说,第一个到的我立刻向山上飞奔了开来。五分钟后,气喘吁吁的我看到了海湾的另一面,瞬间被这个美景震撼得哑口无言。Needless to say, I was the first to arrive, and I began charging for the top. Five minutes later, while gasping for air, I saw the other side of the bay, whose beauty completely took away my ability to speak.下图:纯•白/Below: Pure.White.一尘不染的白雪配上毫无波澜的海水,反射出了最纯洁的颜色。眼前我看到的不是地球的一个角落,而是神亲手锻造出来的奇迹。Spotless snow combined with perfectly flat sea water, reflecting the purest form of color out of this scene. What I saw was not just a corner on Earth, but actually a miracle handcrafted by gods.远处眺望过去,海湾里面的乌斯怀亚号简直就是澡盆里面的玩具。但是这澡盆可不是一般的美啊。Looking down, MV Ushuaia in the bay looks like a toy sitting in a bathtub, a very attractive bathtub.在大自然的巨人面前,我感觉到的却不是畏惧。心中充满的只是满满的敬意,最崇高的感激,以及无以言表的自我认识:人类这么渺小,而这世界又是这么伟大,我们何从挑战地球母亲的权威呢?In front of the giant of nature, I felt no fear. What was in my heart was just respect and appreication, as well as an indescribable form of self-consciousness: humans are so small, yet the world is so big, so where did we gain the audacity to challenge the authority of Mother Earth?上图:查理在天堂拍照呢/Above: Charlie taking photos in heaven在这么高的地方,居然也有好几只特别有探险精神的企鹅。就连人都要爬半天的山,对于为水中快速行动而进化的它们来说,肯定是好几个小时的挣扎吧。Even in places this high, there are a few particularly adventurous penguins. A mountain that takes humans quite a while to climb must be a multi-hour chore for creatures built for rapid movements in water.上图:夫妻双双把家还/Above: home sweet home下图:石块,是象征爱的标志/Below: Rocks are symbols of love企鹅们的生活很简单:在这么美轮美奂的山巅,和自己终身的伴侣一起成立一个家,然后每天看看平静的海面,再去海里打打鱼。人活到这个境界,也算是天外飞仙了吧。Penguins' lives are incredibly simple: live on a gorgeous mountain top, form a family with your lifetime partner, and then look at the peaceful sea, or go fishing in those waters. If a person lives to such a style, he or she may have already reached the next level of existence.不顾向导们的再三劝导,我们一行人决定光着屁股滑着雪下山!尽管到山下时候内裤里面都全部都是白花花的渣,但是所有人都笑开了花。登上摆渡船,看着一动不动的浮冰,我觉得这次来南极实在是太值了。Ignoring the admonishments of the guides, the gang decided to slide down the mountain. Even though we reached the bottom with our underwears full of fluffy snow, everyone was so elated and excited. Onboard the zodiac, watching the floating ice sitting still, I felt this was the most worthwhile trip I had ever been on.下图:回去的路上~!/Below: on the way back!在浮冰群之中,不免撞上一两块冰箱大小的迷你冰山。可是令人没想到的是,冰不但密度极高,而且水上看得到的部分仅仅是十分之一。所以才碰擦到一块小床那么大的冰,我们的摆渡船就被猛烈地顶了开来,我还差点下去洗了个南极澡。In the pack ice, it is inevitable that we would hit a few fridge-sized mini icebergs. Yet surprisingly, ice not only has extremely high density, but also is only 10% visible above water. As a result, just brushing against a bed-sized chunk jerked our zodiac, almost making me take an Antarctic shower.下图:真的是冰山一角啊/Below: really it is a tip of the iceberg!上图:水下观察冰山/Above: monitoring the iceberg from underwater下图:水中跃出的企鹅和摆渡船/Below: a penguin hopping and a zodiac就连掌舵的摆渡船水手也依依不舍,告诉我他从来没看过这么美丽的奥恩港,一边说一边在这个海湾里面转了三圈。一只金图企鹅也在我们身旁来回穿梭,仿佛是在和我们送别。Even the crew handling the zodiac was emotional, telling me he had never seen such a breathtaking Orne Harbour, while taking us around the bay for three more times. A gentoo penguin followed us around, as if it was bidding farewell to us.下图:一只维德尔海豹/Below: A weddel seal这座山是南极大陆的一部分,所以为了庆祝正式登陆南极洲,我们一行人购买了香槟,一同向这蔚蓝的奇迹干一杯!今天,我正式在2016年一年中成功踏上世界七大洲了!This mountain is a part of Antarctica mainland proper, so in order to celebrate the official landing on Antarctica, we bought a bottle of champagne. Cheers, to this azure blue continent of miracles! As of today, I have officially stepped onto all seven continents in the year of 2016!下图:干杯![]~( ̄▽ ̄)~*/Below: cheers!下图:在浮冰上休息的企鹅/Below: penguins chilling on pack ice乌斯怀亚号再次启航,前往下一个目的地。这只是一上午,但是我们都变了,从这一刻起,我们都是真正的南极人了。Ushuaia raised her anchor again, heading towards the next destination. It may have just been a morning, yet we have all changed. From this moment on, we are all truly Antarcticans.库佛维尔岛/Cuverville Island下午的登陆点是库佛维尔岛,一个冰雪覆盖的企鹅聚集地。大家上午的肾上腺素还没完全挥发掉,都争先恐后地往前挤,抢着要下船。Afternoon's landing site is Cuverville Island, a snow-covered penguin colony. The adrenalin from the first half of the day had not dissipated yet, so everyone was pushing forward to board the zodiac.下图:企鹅来凑热闹看我们登陆/Below: penguins sneaking a peek of our landing上图:五彩斑斓的石头/Above: colorful rocks下图:一根冰柱/Below: an icicle这里是这片海域最大的金图企鹅繁殖地之一,也是我们从南乔治亚离开之后第一次看到熟悉的“企鹅公路”。如果不熟悉的小伙伴们可以去南乔治亚篇看看哦~!This is the largest breeding ground for gentoo penguins in this area. It is also the first time that we saw the familiar “penguin highway” after leaving South Georgia. If you are not familiar, go check the South Georgia jounral out!上图:漫山遍野的企鹅/Above: a mountain full of penguins下图:冰川之前的聚集地/Below: the colony in front of a glacier上图:平得反光/Above: so flat that it reflects一只企鹅对我们的登陆用具特别感兴趣,围着那一堆衣服转了好几圈,貌似是要把这些五颜六色的石块全部占为己有。而远处,看着平静的水面,我的灵魂渐渐地离开了身体,上升到了一个超越肉身的精神高度。。。只是我老是在关键时刻被一只只在水面跳跃的企鹅打断冥想。A penguin was particularly interested in our landing gears. It circled around our clothes a few times, as if it was gonna claim ownership of this pile of colorful rocks. Afar, looking at the even sea, my soul slowly departed from my body, ascending to a spiritual level beyond corporeal vessels... Just for my meditation to be broken by a few hopping penguins on the surface.南极真的是地球的秘密宝藏。再怎么看,我都不会审美疲劳。冰、水、企鹅,这么经典的组合,每个人,一生都请不要错过。Antarctica is truly a hidden treasure of Earth. No matter how I look at it, I will never have grown fatigued. Ice, water, penguins, what a classic combination! Everyone, please do not miss out on this in your life.下图:休息一下?/Below: taking a break?上图:摇摇摆摆上班去咯~!/Above: waddling to work!我坐在水边,拿起一块海冰,咬在嘴里含了起来。身边的一只金图企鹅试了试水,被我抓拍到了南极最经典的画面。I sat by the water, took up a piece of sea ice, and held it in my mouth. A gentoo penguin beside me dipped its toes in the water, and became part of a classic photo in Antarctica.上图:出水的企鹅/Above: penguins hopping out of the water大部分企鹅最喜欢的休息方式就是躺在肥肥的肚皮上。我摸了摸自己的小肚腩和三下巴,表示完全可以加入这个本地最受欢迎的活动之中。Most penguins' favorite resting position is lying on top of their chubby belly fat. I felt around my waist and my triple chin, and was very confident that I can join in on this local activity.下图:入乡随俗/Below: doing what the Romans do从登陆点离开后,我们的水手开着摆渡船去了附近的一块浮冰四伏的海域绕了一圈。无数的企鹅在大小不一的冰山之中若隐若现,使得追踪它们拍摄特别的困难。Upon departure from the landing point, our sailor piloted the zodiac towards an area filled with ice packs for a cruise. Numerous penguins played hide and seek with us in the icebergs, making photographing them particularly difficult.我们还得以近距离接触一只趴着睡懒觉的海豹,以及一个快要一分为二的大冰山。水面毫无波纹,简直就是天上云彩的梳妆镜。水手都不好意思快速开船,生怕破坏了冰块的倒影。We also got to get in close contact with a seal snoozing on a piece of ice, as well as a large iceberg that was about to break in half. There are few ripples in the waters, as if they are mirrors for the clouds. Our sailor did not want to sail quickly, as if he did not want to break the reflections of the icebergs.上图:上下一样,分不清楚/Above: can't tell which is up and which is down上图:南极玛格丽特/Above: Antarctica Margarita!回到乌斯怀亚号,在海中前行之际,酒吧的酒保推出了最新原料:一大块新鲜从海里捞上来的冰!用南极的冰做的玛格丽特,果然是味道不一样啊!来,这一杯是敬你的,亲爱的读者,谢谢你一如既往的支持!Back on Ushuaia, as we proceeded on the sea, the bartender in the bar introduced a new ingredient, a chunk of ice freshly picked up from the sea! A margarita made with Antarctic ice is definitely on its own level. Come, this one is to you. To my dear reader, and your unwavering support!下图:来,干杯!/Below: cheers!这天剩下的时光中,我们就慢慢地在这无风的内海中航行。船走得特别慢,两边的倒影纹丝不动地和我们送行。天和地已经没有了区别,而人间和天堂也分辨不开了。难道,这是一场梦麽?In the remaining hours of this day, we sailed slowly in the windless inner sea. The ship went especially slowly, and the reflections on both sides silently bid farewell to us. The sky and the land have become indistinguishable, and so do the mortal realm and heavenly paradise. Maybe, this is all a dream?我坐上顶层甲板,慢慢地摇晃着手里的鸡尾酒,南极的冰块碰撞着杯壁,丁零当啷地作响。一望无垠的蓝和白,从天上倒影到水中,亦或是水里复制到天上,已经无所谓了。若世界的边缘在这里,那我想要永远的留在这个现实和虚幻的天际线。I sat on the top deck, slowly twirling my cocktail. The Antarctic ice hit the glass, making clanking sounds nonstop. The bondless blue and white, the reflection in the water, or is it the reflection in the sky, it does not matter. If the edge of the world is here, then I want to remain at this boundary between reality and fiction forever.上图:巨大的冰山/Above: gigantic iceberg上图:企鹅在冰山上手足无措/Above: confused penguins on an iceberg由于纬度接近南极圈,这里夏日的太阳几乎从来不下山。半夜时分,夕阳终于渐渐地潜入了北方的群山之中,给这个单色调的大洲带来了一抹的橙红。这就是我的2016年11月8日,四年之后的今天,我仍然是记忆犹新。Because of the near-polar circle latitude, the sun here almost never sets in summer. Around midnight, dusk orange finally shroaded this monotone continent as the sun slowly sank beneath the rolling mountains to the north. This is my November 8th, 2016, even fresh on my mind nearly four years later today.上图:南极的夜晚/Above: night in Antarctica欺骗岛/Deception Island第十七天,11月9日Day 17, November 9th五节东北风,负一摄氏度,晴、阴5 knots northeast wind, -1°C, sunny/overcast64°08'S, 61°37'W上图:远眺欺骗岛/Above: Deception Island from afar在南极的最后一天是从欺骗岛开始的。这个岛得名来源于这个看似普通的小岛实际上是一个火山口,里面是一个安全的避风港。从叫做“海神的咆哮”的小口子进去,里面就是方圆几百里最平静的海湾,许多年以来都是捕鲸人、探险队以及考察队的最爱。The last day in Antarctica began with Deception Island. This island's name comes from its deceptively normal appearance actually hides the caldera of a volcano, with a safe harbour inside. Entering Neptune's Bellow, one will find the most peaceful bay hundreds of miles around. It has been a favorite of whalers, expeditions and scientific research for years.下图:欺骗岛地图/Below: Deception Island map上图:遗弃的捕鲸站/Above: abandoned whaling station除了几个年久失修的捕鲸站以外,这个岛还有英国和西班牙的南极科考站。我们选择了海湾对面的一个黑色沙滩登陆。从这里攀爬,几分钟就可以来到一个火山口,空气可以达到三十多度呢!Besides a few abandoned whaling stations, this island also has a research station for UK and Spain each. We chose to land at a different side of the bay, onto a black sand beach. Climbing from here, a few minutes would lead to a volcanic vent, whose air can reach more than 30 degrees!上图:火山边缘/Above: edge of the volcano岛的其他地方还有温暖的沙滩,可以在那上面挖坑自己泡温泉。但是火山带来的地震却是不容小觑的,过去五十年内,岛上的研究站已经被地震损坏了很多次,也让不少其他国家从这里撤了出去。爬上乌黑的山头,我可以一直看到最下面的谷底。The island has warm beaches elsewhere, where you can dig holes for your own hot springs. Yet one cannot disregard the earthquakes that come with the volcano. In the past fifty years, the research stations on the island have been destroyed multiple times, forcing a few countries out of the island. Summiting the black hill, I could see all the way to the bottom of the valley.下图:影子拉的好长好长/Below: my super long shadow回去途中,我看到了一片光溜溜的丝滑雪地。不知道为啥,那时候我的心中只有一个念头:躺!上!去!腿脚不受控制,我走了过去,倒在了这片洁白的床单上,心里美滋滋的。(我怎么这么容易满足?)On the way back, I saw a field of silk-smooth snow. I don't know why, but one thought took over my head: LIE ON IT! My legs listened to the command, so I wafted over there, and collapsed on top of this clean bedsheet, giggling like a maniac. (Why am I so easy to satisfy?)感觉上下图有什么联系.....Feels like the photos above and below are somehow connected...在这里我们还可以挑战在南极游泳。几乎是冰点的水配上没有任何现代设施的组合,可以算是我这辈子游过最冷的一次泳了吧。这种东西一辈子一次绝对足矣!Here, we can also challenge the Antarctic plunge. The near-freezing water combined with a lack of modern facilities made it the most chilling swim I have ever taken in my life. This kind of experience is truly, and only, once in a lifetime!下图:克里斯汀后悔着呢/Below: Christine regretting her decisions上图:打是亲骂是爱?/Above: hitting is caring?海滩上,比我们游泳厉害多的两只海狗互相依偎着,一边嘲笑着我们冻得瑟瑟发抖的姿态,一边扭扭捏捏搂搂抱抱的,嫌我鸡皮疙瘩不够多是么。这发的不是一般的狗粮,而是海狗粮!On the beach, two seals who were significantly better than us at swimming cuddled together, laughing at our shivers while snuggling even closer. Hey, have some decency okay? I have enough chills to deal with already!半月岛/Half Moon Island上图:前往半月岛的路上/Above: on our way to Half Moon Island这次旅程的最后一个登陆点就是半月岛了,所有人惆怅地踏上了满是石子的海滩,不愿意承认这是我们最后一次踏上南极的土地了。对于很多船上的老年人来说,这就是人生中南极的最后几步了。The last landing point during this voyage is Half Moon Island. Everyone sluggishly stepped onto the pebbled beach with sorrow in the eyes, refusing to admit that this would be our final time standing on the soil of Antarctica. For many older passengers, these would be the final steps of Antarctica in their lives.下图:半月岛海滩/Below: Half Moon Island Beach上图:克里斯汀和查理打雪仗中/Above: Christine and Charlie snowball fighting半月岛很小,主要的企鹅活动全部都聚集在岛上山顶裸露的岩石周边。这些凸起来的石头像是数万年前外星人留下的遗迹,其实是之前介绍过的冰原岛峰。数百万年前,这个岛可是一座大山的山顶呢。Half Moon Island is very small, with the majority of penguin activities centered around the bare rocks at the top of the small hill. These protruding features look like alien monuments created thousands of years ago, but are actually nunataks introduced before. Millions of years ago, this island was the peak of a large mountain.下图:一艘一百年前捕鲸人留下的救生船/Below: a life boat left by whalers a hundred years ago上图:和声同唱/Above: synchronized singing下图:难道不是外星球吗?/Below: is this not an alien planet?在岛上打了雪仗,思考了人生,也看了企鹅最后一眼,是时候结束了。所有人依依不舍地踏上了回去的摆渡船,正式结束了南极的最后一次登陆。On the island, we fought in the snow, pondered about life, and took one last glimpse of penguins; it is time. Everyone unwillingly stepped onto zodiac on the way back, officially terminating the last landing in Antarctica.下图:永远不忘南极行/Below: Never forgetting the Antarctica trip结果没想到,我们的摆渡船都不愿意离开,在半路抛锚了。不一会儿,一艘救援的备用艇来了。巨大的潮涌下,所有人都要跳到一米开外的另一艘艇,这可不是简单事呢。一位老太太奋身一跃,结果被绳子绊倒,幸亏被水手一把抱住,否则差点就下去游泳了。Surprisingly, even our zodiac refused to leave, breaking down half way. In a bit, a backup rescue boat arrived. With a huge surge coming in, jumping to another zodiac a meter away was not an easy feat. One old lady leaped with all her might, yet tripped on the ropes. Thankfully one of the sailors caught her, or she might had gone for a swim.再见,南极/Farewell, Antarctica第十七天,第十八天Day 17, 1811月10日,11日November 10th, 11th“人不会一天突然决定成为伟人,他们只是决定了去做伟大的事。”---探险英雄:埃德蒙希拉里爵士“People do not decide to be extraordinary. They decide to accomplish extraordinary things.”—Sir Edmund Hillary上图:南极的最后一眼/Above: the last glimpse of Antarctica南极是世界的最后一片净土,也是最能够体现人类渺小的地方。这个世界很大,有很多地方可以去欣赏,可以去比较,但是南极却是独一无二的。在德雷克海峡漂泊的两天,我坐在餐厅里面,静静地思考着。南极不是照片和文字可以体现的:人类的一切都无法和这个大自然的终极乐园比较,何况是描述呢。Antarctica is the last piece of virgin land on Earth, and is the place to demonstrate the frailty of humanity. The world is big, and it has many places to be appreciated, and compared, yet Antarctica is unique. During the two days drifting in Drake Passage, I sat in the canteen, silently pondering. Antarctica is not described via photos or words: everything humans have created cannot even remotely compare to this ultimate playground of mother nature, yet alone describe it.下图:在餐厅出神/Below: pondering in canteen上图:漫漫长路/Above: long, long way第十九天Day 1911月12日November 12th上图:南极万岁!/Above: Viva Antarctica!今天是庆祝典礼,所有人都来到了休息室,互相道贺:咱都成为世界上去过南极的人上人了!我们的领队也给所有人颁发了证书,证明我们已经成为了货真价实的南极人。Today is a celebration ceremony, so everyone gathered in the lounge. We congratulated each other: we are all one of the thousandth of humans who have been to Antarctica! Our lead guide also presented everyone a certificate, signifying that we have become Antarcticans.下图:领奖咯~!/Below: time for my award!之后,全船的服务团队前来向大家表示感谢,他们负责了我们每天的端茶送水,整理房间,洗衣叠被,送饭收盘子等等。很多人光躺着都晕船了,他们的工作绝对不是一般的困难!之后我们的舰桥团队派来了代表,向大家祝贺。最后是我们的英雄(下图),掌舵二十余年经验,过去二十天救过我们两次命的的Sergio Osiroff Calle船长!Then, the service team came to express their gratitude. They were responsible for our every move from cleaning the room to presenting us the dishes. Some folks got seasick just by lying down, and imagine them having to deal with everything while working! Afterwards, the bridge sent a representing team to congratulate us, and eventually presented our hero(below), the person who had 20 years of experience on the bride, and had saved our lives twice in the past 20 days: Captain Sergio Osiroff Calle!大家在仪式结束之后互相交换了联系方式。这么小一艘船的好处就在于,仅仅二十天后,所有人都像老朋友一般熟悉。上图的波兰大叔专门把他的企鹅毛绒玩具带了过来。下图则是和我一起度过这段美好时光的一帮子年轻人。至今,我们还是常常有联系呢!Everyone exchanged contact information after the ceremony ended. The good thing about such a small ship is that everyone had become great friends after merely 20 days. The Polish dude above brought his personal favorite penguin plushy, and below is the gang that spent the greatest day of my life with me. Even until now, we are still in contact!上图:乌斯怀亚纪念蛋糕/Above: commemorative cake of Ushuaia第二十天Day 2011月13日November 13th54°48'S, 68°18'W终于,我们回到了人类世界。最后一天的早餐是一个大大的蛋糕,做得和我们的船一模一样。和所有共处二十天的船员道别之后,我慢慢地走下了甲板。几天前,我才刚刚从这里上船,怎么一下子就结束了呢?Finally, we returned to human world. The last breakfast is a large cake shaped exactly like our ship. After bidding farewell to the crew who spent the past 20 days with me, I slowly walked off the deck. Just a few days ago, I got onto this boat here, yet how come it has already ended?上图:抛绳子/Above: throwing the rope可是,就在这20天内,我变了,这个世界也变了。美国大选在我们离开世界的时候举行了,看到特朗普当选美国总统时,全船炸开了锅。而与此同时,我则是在思考,南极让我体会到了人的渺小,也给我展示了大自然的宏伟。我学习到了一点谦卑,感受到了一点激昂,靠着南极给我的力量,我会越走,越远。Yet, in these 20 days, I have changed; the world had changed too. American election took place while we were out of this world, and when everyone saw Trump won the election, the entire ship imploded. Meanwhile, I was thinking: Antarctica made me feel my place in this world, and showed me the grand scheme of nature. I learned a bit humility, and experienced excitement. With strength given to me by Antarctica, I will go further, and further.下图:停靠在乌斯怀亚/Below: harboured in Ushuaia上图:所有亚裔的合影!/Above: The entire Asian gang!这就是南极之行的结尾了,谢谢大家的支持和鼓励,也希望您在这篇游记中收获了些许点滴。若是喜欢的话,希望可以加一个收藏,或是点个赞,如果能够分享给小伙伴的话那就更好了!如果南极的前篇都没看过的话,可以看一下之前的福克兰群岛和南乔治亚岛游记(https://bbs.qyer.com/thread-3427825-1.html)哦!再次感谢您的阅读,攻略可以点上面的链接看上部分最后的南极完全攻略!---------------------------------------FIN-------------------------------------------非常感谢阅读!如果有希望前往南极的话,可以随时来问我问题哟!如果喜欢的话就给我点个赞吧!下一篇游记再会咯!

关于游轮的旅行问答
  • ping_ping 回答了问题 · 2021-06-03 22:50

    三峡游轮游轮怎么才能不交单房差啊

    查看准备参加的游轮的舱房布局资料,看舱房配置和自己同行伙伴情况。通常最多的是标准间(一房两床),也有大床间(一房一大床可住两人),也有三人间或四人间但高档船比较少,高等级舱房如套房啥的通常允许入住2~3人。如果自己是单人,可选的策略有:自带旅伴与舱房配置合拍;包下一间舱房(相当于交了房差);由轮船公司或者旅行社协调其它单人拼房(当年我去的时候旅行社就给我儿子协调邮轮公司安排了年龄相仿的小伙伴拼房)。

  • shan_jun 回答了问题 · 2020-11-06 14:11

    有关皇家加勒比游轮的咨询

    郵輪還沒有開航,已經在預售了嗎?一般,不會能選擇船頭船尾,按照內艙房(沒有窗戶)、海景房(有對著海面的窗戶,有些海景房會有其他設施例如救生船阻擋視線)、陽台房(有陽台)、套房(高級房)以不同的價位出售。船頭當然最好了,引擎多在船尾部。郵輪是一種體驗,不要指望境外登陸旅遊的優質,上陸的幾個鐘頭旅遊就是雞肋,指望境外旅遊的,還是要自由行才好。記得買過最便宜的郵輪內艙房日韓線只有900元一人。郵輪是病毒容易傳播的場所,今年年初疫情初起亞洲有2艘郵輪在海上航行時爆發疫情,沒有哪里願意接收他們登陸成為海上棄兒,最後只能航行到母港被接收,一個公主的被日本接收一個星夢的被台灣接收,這件事引起遊客很大的驚慌。如果是我,現在是不敢買郵輪船票的。

  • sean3076 回答了问题 · 2020-08-14 16:45

    请问 珠海机场 到 深圳宝安机场 怎么走?

    珠海機場交通指南:https://www.zhairport.com/traffic/index.html

  • erionna 回答了问题 · 2020-04-21 13:34

    游轮旅游保险怎么买,买哪家

    建议你买安联,我一直买的是这个,而且理赔很方便,关注公众号然后拍照上传文件就可以。但是你要注意的是,一般你买的就是旅游险,如果你到时候所有的费用公司都给退了,那么你是没有损失的,所以是不会赔的。他一般要求取消险的话都是要你出示对方明确不会退款的邮件,和所以你定的项目上要有你的名字,不是说你和他说取消了你就可以退了。要明确是你的确发生了损失我觉得如果是因为疫情的话基本上你的费用,邮轮应该是可退的,就算不可退,你也要看看理赔的上限是多少,以及所以的邮件都要保存,签证什么的不用想了,然后邮轮也没有什么其他的费用了。

  • shan_jun 回答了问题 · 2020-02-15 14:52

    到底要不要去坐游轮?

    郵輪的消息關心一下,鑽石公主號現在還如同瘟疫城市沒有解決,寶瓶星號還空船停泊在基隆港,現在以後的一段日子上郵輪就是賭命。